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 ADVANCED
The North End
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Be Sharp Or B Flat T 
Big Plum (the Girdle Traverse of Cathedral Ledge), The T 
Bird's Nest T 
Childs Play T 
Exiles in Babylon T,S 
Generation X T,TR 
Jack The Ripper T 
Kiddy Crack T 
Knights in White Satin S 
Liger, The T 
Mantleshelf Problem T 
Merrill's Variation T 
Possessed, The T 
Post Mortem T,S 
Raising The Roof T 
Recluse T 
Recluse Traverse T 
Roof aka The Corner, The T 
Slot, The T 
They Died Laughing T 
Thresher T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Bird's Nest 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: D Cilly, S Durgin, fall 1969 FFA Henry Barber, Sept 28th 1972
Page Views: 3,467
Submitted By: lee hansche on Feb 27, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (99)
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BETA PHOTO: Bird's Nest Topo

Description 

I have climbed this route tons of times, and it never gets old, one good lock after the next up the steep section and a very interesting move as you pull the mantel after the steep stuff.... If you want to practice finger crack climbing at this grade, this is a great climb....
Also, good for practicing clean aid climbing....

Start at two finger cracks making an "A" shape in the middle of the cliff.... Climb up to a detached (yet secure) block move right to another "A" shaped feature of finger cracks....
Climb these to the tricky mantel, and pull a few more challenging moves to the place where the anchors used to be (the were recently demolished).... There is an oak tree back and right to anchor to....

Location 

Start at two finger cracks making an "A" shape in the middle of the cliff....

Protection 

Standard rack.... Nuts work well....


Photos of Bird's Nest Slideshow Add Photo
Bird;s Nest is on the left, look for the 2 "A...
BETA PHOTO: Bird;s Nest is on the left, look for the 2 "A...
Short and sweet climb
Short and sweet climb
Steve Moulding (me) high on Bird's Nest, October 1...
Steve Moulding (me) high on Bird's Nest, October 1...

Comments on Bird's Nest Add Comment
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By Tradoholic
May 25, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Not quite as nice as "Die Laughing" but equal in grade and style. No bolted anchor as the falcon guide lists but a nice big tree to the right with rap slings.
By Dan Wachlaczenko
Aug 28, 2011

Interesting OS, got to the top sweating like a pig. Get on it when totally dry, feels insecure when damp. Interesting finish.
By Rob C.
From: Freeport, ME
Oct 11, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Good finger jams, good hand jams at the top, good rest in the middle, all with fun movement - great little climb!
By JonP756
From: Mahwah, NJ
Jul 13, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Followed this after just leading They Died Laughing and found it to be quite a bit harder. Maybe I was just tired from climbing all day.