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Steele
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unnamed 5.10 left of Psycho Killer 
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Bird's Nest Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Season: fall to spring
Page Views: 541
Submitted By: sammy raviv on Nov 26, 2011
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Description 

THE classic corner at Steele!! Obvious left facing corner on the right side of the ampitheater. Climb to anchor adjecent to bird nest perch. Up the ante and send the 12b Chandler's Roof above.


Location 

Right side of Ampitheater, Steele.


Protection 

Cams to medium



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By Cres Simpson
From: Birmingham, AL
Dec 9, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Not sure where the PG-13 grade came from on this one, but my guess is it's probably because of where you belay -- you belay from a ledge about 15' off the ground with potential for a nasty fall for everyone involved if the leader bails off early in the climb. Place a piece or two on the ground to secure the belayer and you're all set. The gear is excellent all the way up the climb, definitely not PG-13.

I used doubles of 0.75 C4s and 0.5 C4s.

Great climb!! Crux is down low and it's tough for the first 15 feet or so but after that it cruises beautifully.

By Khowe765
From: Knoxville, TN
Jan 6, 2014

Classic climb at Steele, a must-do. Clean line, no need to extend anything. Great protection. I'm assuming, as well, that the PG-13 rating would be due to the fall potential at the start of the climb.