|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 70'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|Season:||fall to spring|
|Submitted By:||sammy raviv on Nov 26, 2011|
|Comments on Bird's Nest Crack||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Cres Simpson
From: Birmingham, AL
Dec 9, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Not sure where the PG-13 grade came from on this one, but my guess is it's probably because of where you belay -- you belay from a ledge about 15' off the ground with potential for a nasty fall for everyone involved if the leader bails off early in the climb. Place a piece or two on the ground to secure the belayer and you're all set. The gear is excellent all the way up the climb, definitely not PG-13.
I used doubles of 0.75 C4s and 0.5 C4s.
Great climb!! Crux is down low and it's tough for the first 15 feet or so but after that it cruises beautifully.
From: Knoxville, TN
Jan 6, 2014
|Classic climb at Steele, a must-do. Clean line, no need to extend anything. Great protection. I'm assuming, as well, that the PG-13 rating would be due to the fall potential at the start of the climb.|
By Lyle Dean
Nov 30, 2014
|Kip and I first did this in about 1974 or 75. Shortly after Kip and I climbed it I watched Joel lead it in his hiking boots with hexes and straight sided stoppers, pretty exciting! Rundel Curtis free soloed this route route in about 1978.|