Bird's Eye and Sporty Area Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Dave Quinn's ripping stem and crimp "Owl Clif...
To the left, past the RGC area, is a section of cliff notable for the many large corners and aretes, named after the 3 pitch 11c Sporty Owl that climbs up the middle of it. This section reminds me of pictures of Patagonia and it's sharp spires. Contrary to it's name, most of the current routes here are well protected with traditional gear and a scattering of bolts. Routes are up to 3 pitches long and wander through wild, featured terrain.
When you come to Butolicious a 12a/b bolted 30 m arete, to it's right, at mid height, is a big corner with hanging blocks in the middle of it. Above is a huge slot with the striking looking "Texas Flake" making up the right side. This is the landmark bounding the right of the sector and the left is the sharp, half height, bolted fin of Talon 12a.
Just past Talon, is a tall, steep arete with many cracks in it, the start of where the Bird's Eye Wall heads up the hill. Unfortunately, a lot of the rock is crumbly here, but with work it should offer up some worthy lines. The only currently completed one is the bolted namesake route Bird's Eye View that looks out over Sawyer Pond. The shorter wall up and to the left has one line, a surprisingly pumpy traditionally protected 5.10 The Incubator and possibilities for more.
From where the approach trail gets you to the cliff, head left. The bolted Butolicious arete with giant slot and The Texas Flake high above will be your landmark at the start of this section.
Climbing Season For the All Locations area.
Weather station 10.5 miles from here
7 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Bird's Eye and Sporty Area
Butolicious 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a NH
: WM: Kancamagus (Central)
: ... : Bird's Eye and Sporty Area
This beautiful, bolted 100 foot arete offers exciting, technical and surprisingly pumpy climbing. Start up a couple bolts worth of featured climbing to gain the start of the arete proper. Avoid getting suckered into getting up on to the little ledge to the left, or it will dead end you for getting on to the arete. Work your self up so you can reach the flake on the arete and a cruxy sequence that leads you onto the right hand face. Heal hooks, deadpoint hand pops and balance will get you through...[more] Browse More Classics in NH