Bird's Eye and Sporty Area Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Dave Quinn's ripping stem and crimp "Owl Clif...
To the left, past the RGC area, is a section of cliff notable for the many large corners and aretes, named after the 3 pitch 11c Sporty Owl that climbs up the middle of it. This section reminds me of pictures of Patagonia and it's sharp spires. Contrary to it's name, most of the current routes here are well protected with traditional gear and a scattering of bolts. Routes are up to 3 pitches long and wander through wild, featured terrain.
When you come to Butolicious a 12a/b bolted 30 m arete, to it's right, at mid height, is a big corner with hanging blocks in the middle of it. Above is a huge slot with the striking looking "Texas Flake" making up the right side. This is the landmark bounding the right of the sector and the left is the sharp, half height, bolted fin of Talon 12a.
Just past Talon, is a tall, steep arete with many cracks in it, the start of where the Bird's Eye Wall heads up the hill. Unfortunately, a lot of the rock is crumbly here, but with work it should offer up some worthy lines. The only currently completed one is the bolted namesake route Bird's Eye View that looks out over Sawyer Pond. The shorter wall up and to the left has one line, a surprisingly pumpy traditionally protected 5.10 The Incubator and possibilities for more.
From where the approach trail gets you to the cliff, head left. The bolted Butolicious arete with giant slot and The Texas Flake high above will be your landmark at the start of this section.
Climbing Season For the All Locations area.
Weather station 10.5 miles from here
7 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Bird's Eye and Sporty Area
The Sporty Owl 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a NH
: WM: Kancamagus (Central)
: ... : Bird's Eye and Sporty Area
This route is a great mix of climbing, from crack of all sizes to a little slab, overhanging stemming and finishing up with bolt protected face. The last two pitches clock in at about 11c. The first is easier, with the grade dependent on how you feel about the short off-width section, 5.9 or 10dPitch 1: Head up the obvious wide crack to a stance, then up to the first anchor. The start is a little awkward feeling, especially since Dave removed the first couple bolts, opting to traditionally prote...[more] Browse More Classics in NH
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