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Bird's Eye and Sporty Area

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bumping Uglies - open project TR 
Butolicious S 
Nameles Corner T 
Owl's Cliff Corner (The OCC), The S 
Owliola T 
Sporty Owl, The T 
Talon S 

Bird's Eye and Sporty Area  


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Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: M Sprague on Oct 13, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: Dave Quinn's ripping stem and crimp "Owl Clif...

Description 

To the left, past the RGC area, is a section of cliff notable for the many large corners and aretes, named after the 3 pitch 11c Sporty Owl that climbs up the middle of it. This section reminds me of pictures of Patagonia and it's sharp spires. Contrary to it's name, most of the current routes here are well protected with traditional gear and a scattering of bolts. Routes are up to 3 pitches long and wander through wild, featured terrain.

When you come to Butolicious a 12a/b bolted 30 m arete, to it's right, at mid height, is a big corner with hanging blocks in the middle of it. Above is a huge slot with the striking looking "Texas Flake" making up the right side. This is the landmark bounding the right of the sector and the left is the sharp, half height, bolted fin of Talon 12a.

Just past Talon, is a tall, steep arete with many cracks in it, the start of where the Bird's Eye Wall heads up the hill. Unfortunately, a lot of the rock is crumbly here, but with work it should offer up some worthy lines. The only currently completed one is the bolted namesake route Bird's Eye View that looks out over Sawyer Pond. The shorter wall up and to the left has one line, a surprisingly pumpy traditionally protected 5.10 The Incubator and possibilities for more.

Getting There 

From where the approach trail gets you to the cliff, head left. The bolted Butolicious arete with giant slot and The Texas Flake high above will be your landmark at the start of this section.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.5 miles from here

7 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',2],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Bird's Eye and Sporty Area
Butolicious is the purple squiggly line in the center. The green line to the left is Lady of the Lake and it's flake variation. The red line on the right is a 12a crack that I cleaned and TRed, but haven't gotten back to lead (open project). It's second pitch, through the roof and up the slot would be a great hard project. <br />- photo by Glenn Cilley

Butolicious 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a  NH : Owl's Cliff (off Kancamagu... : ... : Bird's Eye and Sporty Area
This beautiful, bolted 100 foot arete offers exciting, technical and surprisingly pumpy climbing. Start up a couple bolts worth of featured climbing to gain the start of the arete proper. Avoid getting suckered into getting up on to the little ledge to the left, or it will dead end you for getting on to the arete. Work your self up so you can reach the flake on the arete and a cruxy sequence that leads you onto the right hand face. Heal hooks, deadpoint hand pops and balance will get you through...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Bird's Eye and Sporty Area Slideshow Add Photo
Dima, starting up the arete "Butolicious" 12a/b
Dima, starting up the arete "Butolicious"...
The back side of Talon with the beginning of the Bird's Eye Area to the left. Dave Quinn and I tried a ground up ascent of the cracks in the upper left hand corner, but got turned back on the second pitch by the crumbly flaring rock with no good gear. A top down cleaning and a few bolts should result in a nice line. The 100 ft. arete of Butolicious can be seen peeking through the bottom right of the picture.
The back side of Talon with the beginning of the B...
Owl's Cliff Left - Bird's Eye and Sporty Areas <br /> <br />
BETA PHOTO: Owl's Cliff Left - Bird's Eye and Sporty Areas
Second and third pitch terrain of The Sporty Area
Second and third pitch terrain of The Sporty Area

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