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 ADVANCED
Alcatraz Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Birdman T,S 
Hoosgal T 
Machinegun S 
Scarface T 
Solitary S,TR 

Birdman 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Kurt Schroeder
Page Views: 2,221
Submitted By: Almonzo on Jan 1, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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Description 

This climb follows the bolts on the face just right of the zig-zagging crack on the Alcatraz Wall. This is the last major crag on the east side of the creek as you head down through Jailhouse Rock. To get there, continue down the creek past the point where it makes a 90 degree left turn below the Cell Blocks. Continue downhill past several bolted routes on the left (40 to Life, Mr. Meanor, & Mug Shot). At the bottom of the hill look up and left to see the Alcatraz Wall.

This face climb is probably the best route on Alcatraz Wall.

Protection 

Three bolts, bring a few small/medium stoppers or cams to get you from the 2nd to 3rd bolt. There are chains up top.


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 22, 2010
By Vincent Greene
Mar 14, 2004

First ascent was Kurt Schroeder
By George Marsden
Jun 4, 2004

I was climbing at Alcatraz Wall on 6/29 and noticed that the waist level belay bolts (cold shuts) had been chopped (not removed, CHOPPED). The foot level belay bolt on the new route between Scarface and Hoosgal is still present. The chopping happened since the last time I climbed there in Jan/Feb.

Very uncool. Wonder if it was the same person who took the pins off Standard Route on Chimney Rock?

Please contact me if you have any info.

George Marsden

gbmaz@yahoo.com
By Scott Drawz
Nov 8, 2006

Those belay bolts should ALL be removed. They are unneccessary and we should strive to do the least amount of damage to the rock as possible, i.e. only putting in bolts when absolutely neccessary.

The chopped bolts are ugly and should be epoxied over and dusted w/ powdered rock from the wall to colormatch.

Just my opinion....
By A.P.T.
From: Truckee,Ca
Nov 8, 2006

"First Ascentionists" can and will do what they want with their own routes! If I recall correctly, those belay bolts were placed by the person that put up those routes. If they are putting these bolts at the base of routes other than their own, removal will most likely be the result!!
By jbak
Nov 9, 2006

A quick note on the topic of bolt disguise...putting rock dust on epoxy usually just creates a mess. The dust just turns dark in the liquid epoxy so it doesn't match the rock color anyway. And liquid epoxy almost always leaves some kind of sheen. The best solution I've found is a tiny piece of dark epoxy PUTTY over the bolt remains. Most people don't even notice it if artfully done. A shot of tan rustoleum to color the putty can make it invisible.
By Jimbo
Dec 9, 2006

The ethics of Bens "Belay bolts" can be argued, the fact is, they are unsafe for both the belayer and the leader. If the leader falls the belayer does a face plant into the rock. Which could cause said belayer to lose control of the rope dropping the leader.
If Ben wants to "keep stuff really safe" those bolts should be back away from the cliff several feet, and the belayer should be tied in with enough cord to move, in case something gets pulled off, but not so much slack as to smack the wall when catching a fall.
Ben is doing climbers a disservice by placing his belay bolts. Newbie climbers should be made aware that these bolts are not standard practice and are indeed unsafe.
By Jimbo
Dec 9, 2006

jbak, I use clear silicon caulking and granite dust to hide my bad holes. Seems to work well and stand the test of time.
Hey, when we gonna go climb at the Weather Top?
By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Jun 8, 2007

I noticed that there is a route called "Birdman" on the Aves Tower in SQII. It sounds like it might be a fun route.
By jbak
Jun 11, 2007

Joseph, the BIRDMAN on Aves tower blows this route *into*the*weeds*. It's a 3 pitch adventure climb that has a lot of air for the grade.
By Joe Kreidel
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 22, 2009

Has the zig-zagging crack been climbed? Anyone have any info on that one, mostly, is it worth doing?
By ryan dillon
From: Tucson, AZ.
Mar 22, 2010

Robert,
A 9/16 wrench comes in handy to have in your pack when you run into situations like this.