|The South Slabs
The right side of the Lower Tier of the South Slabs, while it seems steep, is well-featured enough to allow for a couple of very enjoyable, moderate face routes, of which Birdland is one.
Begin near a crystalline pothole of sorts in the wall beneath three overly-close bolts - clip the second with a long sling (you'll likely regret clipping the first due to rope drag issues near the top of the pitch), and make some 8/9 moves directly left into a bejeweled groove. Step up the groove, passing a couple bolts along the way, until a crack in a right-facing feature is visible just to the left. Make crux friction moves left to this crack, sink a couple nuts, and then run it through more thin friction moves, stepping left into a water streak before gaining easier ground to the belay bolts.
Birdland is one of two moderate slab lines on the right margin of the Lower Tier of the South Slab. The start is easily identified by a pothole in the wall with two closely-spaced bolts immediately above. The line continues up a crystalline groove six feet left of the initial bolts.
4 bolts (clip the first one if you really feel like, avoid it to minimize drag) and a set of stoppers will get you through this pitch. You also might want to bring along a good set of nuts.
Per Mojo Stylee: "all anchors and anchor bolts and chains have been removed for all of the climbs in this immediate area, from Aunt Edna's Costume Jewelry through Jazzman (a.k.a. Turdland); most bolts if not all at this point have been removed."
From: Fort Collins, CO
Feb 16, 2010
There is only 4 bolts? In the new guide book by Craig Luebben, Cameron Cross, and Bennett Scott it says it has been retrobolted w/ 11 bolts. Is this a different route or have some been removed?
|By Aaron Martinuzzi|
Feb 19, 2010
Indeed - only four bolts; the guidebook also states that these routes diverge after the sixth shared bolt, when they in fact separate after their second shared bolt.