|b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)
One of the classic "Land" climbs. And yes, that's the same John Rupley that put up so many climbs in Arizona.
This climb is easy to find. Follow the trail past the huge right-facing corner of Roseland, past the 'gym', and up a few steps to the next huge corner (Bird Cage), just before the cliff becomes licheny.
P1: Start at the corner, but work up and right across the horizontals to a fixed pin, and pull a small overhang. Continue up the face (crux; may be tricky to protect) and eventually work a bit right to the arete. Two bolts await you higher and further out on the arete. 5.8+, 90'.
Many people rap from here but the second pitch is just as good.
P2. Proceed up into a steep left-facing corner, then past some small roofs, to the top. 5.8+, 115'.
Descend at the Fat City tree or on the trail.
Standard Gunks rack.
|By Adam Catalano|
From: Albany, New York
Mar 15, 2006
Don't miss out on the second pitch. Incredible.
Mar 15, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
John what do you mean by a classic "Land" climb?
Regarding the two responses below; thanks gentlemen. Now, not that I need anymore climbing goals, the "Land" climbs at the Gunks have become one!
|By Chris Duca|
From: Havertown, PA
Mar 18, 2008
I think a lot of people get confused by this description and comment. When I first started climbing at the Gunks and saw this comment in the Williams guide, I thought it meant the route was short, thus close to the "land". If you look through the guidebook, however, many route names end or begin with the word "land". For instance--"Birdland", "Disneyland", "Never Never Land", "Turdland", "Land's End", "Absurdland", "Land of Milk and Honey"...the list goes on and on. A good goal would be to do all the "land" climbs in the Gunks.
|By John Peterson|
Mar 19, 2008
To quote Chris Jones (Climbing in North America), in 1958, "McCarthy launched out on a series of classics, the "Land" climbs, with his Birdland (5.9) and Roseland (5.9)". Later, MaCarthy and Gran put up Never Never Land. Finally, in 1960 they "put in a finale to the Land climbs, Land's End".
Although it was McCarthy that started the "Land" climbs, others continued the tradition and thus the Gunks contain quite a few "Land" climbs, almost all of which are classics.
Aug 6, 2009
Do the 2nd pitch. Period.
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 17, 2009
P1 is always a pleasure, although I always forget the location of the the little white pebble (left foot) for the crux move. P2 is very different from P1, in my opinion the better of the two pitches. Lots of nice moves to a nice roof.
From: Decatur, GA
Oct 13, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fantastic climbing that doesn't really ever let up. The first pitch crux was a fun puzzle to solve. This would be a solid 5.10 in the south.
|By Jeff Mekolites|
From: HOTlanta, GA
Nov 21, 2010
This would be a solid 5.10 in the south.
I completely disagree, IMHO...
From: Red River Gorge
Jan 29, 2011
I also disagree.
|By Andy Weinmann|
From: Alexandria, VA
May 30, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pulling the roof directly on P2 is 5.9. Escaping out right is 5.8. Gear is good either way.
Jul 16, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
WITH a BD 0.4 in the right place and careful attention to the feet at the P1 crux, this climb's great, airy, fun, and interesting. WITHOUT those two things, it could feel 5.9+ and pretty PG13, especially to someone not solid at the grade. I felt like P1 was the better, harder pitch, but P2 is well worth the trouble, especially if you like Gunks roofs. The blueberries on route are amazing, too.
From: Red Hook, NY
6 days ago
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thought Pt.1 was G and about right at 8+.
Pt. 2 felt more PG and around 9ish for the roof. Both pitches are great.