Birdland 5.8+
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | Jim McCarthy, John Rupley, Jim Andress, 1958 |
| Submitted By: | John Peterson on Feb 26, 2006 |
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Just below the crux.
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Description One of the classic "Land" climbs. And yes, that's the same John Rupley that put up so many climbs in Arizona.
This climb is easy to find - follow the trail to a huge corner (Bird Cage), just before the cliff becomes licheny.
P1: Start at the corner, but work right to a fixed pin and pull a small overhang. Continue up the face (crux) and eventually work a bit right to the arete. Belay at a fixed anchor. 5.8+, 90'.
Many people rap from here but the second pitch is just as good.
P2. Proceed up into a small corner, past some small roofs, to the top. 5.8+, 115'.
Descend at the Fat City tree or on the trail.
Protection Standard Gunks rack.
The first hard move.
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Stepping up to the stance below the crux.
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BETA PHOTO: Climber on Right is on Birdland. The climber on th...
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BETA PHOTO: Looking down the 1st pitch
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Climber on Birdland 10/2010
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Climbing and rapping Birdland.
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Stranded on Birdland
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Birdland P1
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Reaching the arete.
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Working on pitch one.
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By Adam Catalano
From: Albany, New York
Mar 15, 2006
| Don't miss out on the second pitch. Incredible. |
By losbill
Mar 15, 2008
rating: 5.8
| John what do you mean by a classic "Land" climb?
Regarding the two responses below; thanks gentlemen. Now, not that I need anymore climbing goals, the "Land" climbs at the Gunks have become one! |
By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Hinesburg, Vermont
Mar 18, 2008
| I think a lot of people get confused by this description and comment. When I first started climbing at the Gunks and saw this comment in the Williams guide, I thought it meant the route was short, thus close to the "land". If you look through the guidebook, however, many route names end or begin with the word "land". For instance--"Birdland", "Disneyland", "Never Never Land", "Turdland", "Land's End", "Absurdland", "Land of Milk and Honey"...the list goes on and on. A good goal would be to do all the "land" climbs in the Gunks. |
By John Peterson
Mar 19, 2008
| To quote Chris Jones (Climbing in North America), in 1958, "McCarthy launched out on a series of classics, the "Land" climbs, with his Birdland (5.9) and Roseland (5.9)". Later, MaCarthy and Gran put up Never Never Land. Finally, in 1960 they "put in a finale to the Land climbs, Land's End".
Although it was McCarthy that started the "Land" climbs, others continued the tradition and thus the Gunks contain quite a few "Land" climbs, almost all of which are classics. |
By paulmadry
Aug 6, 2009
| Do the 2nd pitch. Period. |
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 17, 2009
| P1 is always a pleasure, although I always forget the location of the the little white pebble (left foot) for the crux move. P2 is very different from P1, in my opinion the better of the two pitches. Lots of nice moves to a nice roof. |
By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Oct 13, 2010
rating: 5.9+
| Fantastic climbing that doesn't really ever let up. The first pitch crux was a fun puzzle to solve. This would be a solid 5.10 in the south. |
By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Nov 21, 2010
| This would be a solid 5.10 in the south.
I completely disagree, IMHO... |
By JohnWesely
From: Athens, GA
Jan 29, 2011
| I also disagree. |
By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
May 30, 2012
rating: 5.9
| Pulling the roof directly on P2 is 5.9. Escaping out right is 5.8. Gear is good either way. |
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