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e. The Mac Wall (Something Interesting)
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Birdie Party T 
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Coexistence T 
Credibility Gap T 
Dangler, The T 
Dry Martini T 
Fall to Grace T 
Fly Again T 
Graveyard Shift T 
Higher Stannard T 
Interstice T 
Jane Fonda Workout for Pregnant Women, The TR 
Land's End (Direct) T 
Laughing Man T 
Men At Arms T 
MF T 
Mother's Day Party T 
Overhanging Layback T 
Scene of the Climb T 
Something Boring T 
Something Interesting T 
Star Action T 
Still Crazy After All These Years T 
Tequila Mockingbird T 
Three Pines T 
Tough Shift T 
Try Again T 
Welcome to the Gunks T 

Birdie Party 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: FA - Jim McCarthy and Doug Thompkins, 1959, FFA - Kevin Bein, 1966
Page Views: 4,475
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on Feb 15, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (58)
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A few moves past the roof crux on Birdie Party.

Description 

Pitch one is a great, solid 5.8 on its own.

Pitch one climbs a thin crack up and traverses right to a thin, left-leaning crack, continuing up past a short right-facing corner to a pair of bolts.

If you're continuing on, clip 'em put a long runner on it, 'cause your about to head right. Way right, on an exciting ride. There is a pointed flake out there in the distance ... head that way, and when you get there don't forget about your second! Continue along the exciting hand traverse across the flake to the bolt anchors above MF. Belay.

Pitch two will require a bit of wandering to get up and into the business. From the MF bolts, head left a touch to a flake in the "ceiling", wait now come back right, now crank up and over the ceiling on the flake to a stance...don't forget about how your gonna sew this one up, but don't kill yourself with rope drag either. From here the route continues straight up, connecting with MF.

We actually rapped from the mentioned stance above the crux on the second pitch. There was a scary fixed anchor that consisted of an alien with clipped wires, a TCU with clipped wires and a tricam...we lived.

From the clifftop, there are bolts to the left above Three Pines. Three rappels with a single rope will get you to the ground.


Location 

The Mac Wall Trail is about a 7 minute walk from the Uberfall.

Birdie Party starts at a thin crack halfway between Something Interesting and MF; it's also about 20' right of the big tree that's just next to the start of Higher Stannard.


Protection 

Standard trad rack



Photos of Birdie Party Slideshow Add Photo
Simon on Birdie Party
Simon on Birdie Party
Nearing the P1 chains
Nearing the P1 chains
Just before the travers at end of 1st pitch.
Just before the travers at end of 1st pitch.
Janice on the initial crack
Janice on the initial crack
Red pointed!
BETA PHOTO: Red pointed!
Comments on Birdie Party Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 14, 2012
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Feb 17, 2008

Great description.

By JoeLeiper
Feb 19, 2008

In my opinion, one of the Gunks' best routes. First pitch has great face climbing, a big flake to fool with; second pitch roof is full body-length but well protected, with a nice little 5.7 runout above.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Jun 14, 2009

Stellar! If you mind the rope drag, its possible to climb this in one pitch to GTL. This is especially nice as it avoids the contrived down-climb to the MF bolt anchors.

By David Stowe
Jun 15, 2009

The best line to do this in one pitch is to actually to the first pitch of Mothers Day Party which allows you the climb straight up through the second pitch roof on Birdie Party. Not only is this a better and more direct line it also makes for more consistent climbing as both pitches go at 5.10 as opposed to a 5.8 and 5.10 pitch. Once of the best linkups in the Gunks.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Jun 15, 2009

Ya but you miss the killer hand traverse along the flake, no?

By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Jul 14, 2009

Yes.

By David Stowe
Jul 16, 2009

You miss the traverse, but you get a 200 ft pitch of 5.10 climbing with a great line. The traverse is ok, but nothing to rave about. The other way it is two pitches one being 5.8 and the other being 5.10. Plus doing it in one long pitch makes the roof much less of an issue if the leader happens to fall as you won't be falling on your belayer.

By JSH
Administrator
Jul 30, 2009

P1 to the chains is 5.8/5.8+ and a good goal at that grade. Most 5.10 leaders skip any pro in the first 15' of the crack before you traverse right. Because I am a wimp who does not lead 5.10, I sometimes place up to 4 pieces in that section - it can be done, with micronuts and including a magic pink tricam (stinger right, it just clicks into place). The rest of the pitch takes a variety of nuts, but watch the rope pull - zippering is a possibility.

By Jaysen Henderson
From: White Plains, New York
Sep 30, 2011

I've been climbing a lot of 10's in the gunks and I found p2 of this one to be easiest than even 10a - it felt much more like 9. I found that the most difficult part was placing pro under the roof on p2 but the moves really didn't feel any harder than 5.8. Am I missing something? I'm not going to suggest a new grade but I'dd just like to see if I'm the only one?

By msdubs007
Aug 14, 2012

I'd have to agree with Jaysen, feels like kittens compared to other 10's around that sector.