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Isles in the Sky
Routes Sorted
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Agoraphobia T 
Bee Gees T 
Bee's Knees, The S 
Bird of Fire T 
Celebrated Beast T 
Dead Bees S 
Dolphin T 
Don's Crack T 
Metabolic Frolic T 
Nectar T 
Pinky and the Brain S 
Raven, The S 
Rites of Spring T 
Route 1202 T 
Safety Dance TR 
Save the Last Stance for Me T 
Slam Dance T 
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Wedlock T 
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Wings of Steel TR 
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Unsorted Routes:

Bird of Fire 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: John Long & Ray Ochoa, May 1974
Page Views: 19,491
Submitted By: Mike Kidner on May 14, 2002

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At the jug. Photo: Simon Hatfield

Description 

Climb the stellar finger-small hands crack to the slightly bulging finish. Nice ledge just below the final 8 feet or so to rest on and get psyched out. You can see the big chalk mark from the ground. Throw in some good pro here and fire it up.

There is a 2 bolt anchor/rap (3/8") located just right of the top of this climb. Rap back to base w/one rope (70').

Protection 

Apart from the blank first 8-10 feet the pro is beautiful, a rack of nuts, and cams to gold Camalot size will have you sorted.


Photos of Bird of Fire Slideshow Add Photo
Dave sends!  Killer route!
Dave sends! Killer route!
D leads Bird of Fire.
D leads Bird of Fire.
andy sending the crux of bird of fire
andy sending the crux of bird of fire
Bird of Fire. Photo Credit Alex Cooper.
Bird of Fire. Photo Credit Alex Cooper.
Climber - Paisley Close. <br /> <br />Photo - Steve Cox
Climber - Paisley Close. Photo - Steve Cox
Bird of fire Christmas day 1985
Bird of fire Christmas day 1985
approach to bird of fire
approach to bird of fire
"Bird Of Fire". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Bird Of Fire". Photo by Blitzo.
zeke styling the Bird of Fire
zeke styling the Bird of Fire
Brett at the crux.
Brett at the crux.
Upper crux
Upper crux
Sewing it up...
Sewing it up...
Amy ROCKIN this Quality Route
Amy ROCKIN this Quality Route
beautiful line!
beautiful line!
John Dubrawski on Bird of Fire. Photographer: David Gaston
John Dubrawski on Bird of Fire. Photographer: Davi...
Blooming joshua tree and climber on "Bird of Fire". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Blooming joshua tree and climber on "Bird of ...
Placing the last piece before firing the crux!
Placing the last piece before firing the crux!
one of my favorite climbs!
one of my favorite climbs!
Mike Kidner heads up Bird Of Fire. Photo: Shana Lauer
Mike Kidner heads up Bird Of Fire. Photo: Shana La...
Court on the beautiful BoF line. <br /> <br />November 2009
Court on the beautiful BoF line. November 2009

Comments on Bird of Fire Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 10, 2013
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jun 11, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Outstanding route for everyone. If your new or timid to leading, this is a great TR (as I did it the first time). For those that have a handle on leading, it will require a bit of courage for the beginning section but the balance of the climb boasts excellent rest stances and bomber pro. Go for the Rubicon afterwards if you cruise it.
By Anonymous Coward
Feb 13, 2005

Ernest Sierras from eastern Switzerland.This was my 2nd try, successful redpoint. It is a beautiful straight forward route. I think more important than the climb itself is was there a good energy that given moment? I did try rubicon after I got spanked. The energy remaind the same it will be there next time.
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 28, 2005

Such a good line. The rock is some of the best in the park. I had a hard time milking a good rest out of the last stance, before the business. Maybe better to fire in pro and blast it?

Definitely a climb I'd want to bring with me to a deserted island.
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Jun 29, 2005

I have not done this one in quite some time. But I have to totally agree that it is one I would wish to have with me anywhere and anytime. And the rock? Yeah!!! That shit is on the money up there on Isles in the Sky. Most if not all of the routes there are a blast!!! Even the easiest...
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Mar 21, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

AC wrote..."I had a hard time milking a good rest out of the last stance, before the business. Maybe better to fire in pro and blast it?"
As Vogel states, "if in doubt, run it out!" Remember that mantra
By Adam Catalano
From: Albany, New York
Apr 23, 2006

Instant Classic in my book. Just spent a week in JTree and this route definitely topped the list. Can't wait to go back next year and do it again.
By Dr. Evil
From: Boulder, CO
May 14, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Great climb. Once past the bouldery start, the climb eats gear.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 3, 2006

Great line and fun. Just before the top out a gold Camalot works like a dream. Unlike the description...a 60m rope works fine from the top anchors. Although, I recommend extending it over the lip due to wear.

Fun and must do!

~Susan
By JP.8d
From: Menlo Park, CA
Nov 7, 2006

This is a great line. Good lead for the rook tradster looking to break into the 5.10 level. I remember lots of good gear past the first 10 feet (which has a flat landing if you pop off). I do recall a lot of face holds to crimp and stand on. Some I remember to sound very hollow (especially nice hold before final bulge) and might not always be there. Worthy of many laps!
By tony grice
Nov 10, 2006

The start is kinda scary.
By armando fimbrez
From: rancho cucamonga
Feb 27, 2008

A classic John Long route. A beautiful line. Delicate moves up aways before getting in pro. Takes great gear after that. Fell at the top the first time I did it back in Oct 2006. Fun clean fall. Now I can get it without fallen. Enjoy this beautiful Gem.
By Shipp
From: laguna beach, ca
May 15, 2009
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Did this climb yesterday. It was hot - our last trip to Josh for the season.
The bottom - You're about 12' off the deck before you can get any pro in. Be careful here - it's an ankle buster. one 10a move after the traverse in.
The middle - nice climbing on good rock w/ excellent protection - mostly 1" or less.
The top - right before the top gets steep there are about two 5.10a/b moves to a decent stance and good finger lock. Place pro here as high as possible then fire the top. The steep section is 5.9 at best and is a lot of fun.
By Cory
From: Boise, ID
May 24, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Wow this climb was fun! I climbed up on good holds to the right of the main crack for a short ways to where I could place a good nut. Then downclimbed a few moves, and with the pro over my head the tricky move getting into the main crack wasn't bad. The middle portion is fun moderate climbing and has great stances for placing gear. The moves getting to the final stance before the bulge were a little tricky, but I was surprised to find that the crack at the bulge widens to perfect hands and there are jugs galore! Just as I was expecting the climb to get harder it got easier!

In short, the pro is great and the climbing is awesome, go do this route!!!
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Aug 19, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Reardon soloing it, naked! Hahaha

By Eric T.
From: St. Augustine, Florida
Sep 27, 2011

Classic! One of my new favorite lines at Josh. On my first attempt I tried to plug a #3 BD at the top to protect the top out, not knowing it was all jugs. Got pumped in the process and took a nice, fun 15 footer on a .4 BD. Ignored the big cam at the top the second time and finished on the jugs no problem. So fun!
By Jim21
Mar 31, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

One of my favs! I followed but plan to lead it next time I'm back in J-tree
By Souljah
From: Northern NM
Apr 26, 2012

Everything a leader could ask for - this great line delivers. One of those routes you will want to revisit with a friend who hasn't experienced it yet.
By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Jan 7, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Excellent climb! One of the best .10s I've been on in the park. Has really excellent movement and good position. The first 60 feet (minus the initial start) feels like 5.9 or 5.8+. You really don't get into the .10 section until the very top, so you have plenty of gear below you. And you finish with a "thank god" jug. Excellent! Great climb for those breaking into .10 in the park, I would say. Take a lot of thin gear, up to a #2 (I placed down low), maybe one #0 master cam. I placed several pieces in the 0.5 range. Grey alien at the top along with a 0.5 C4. I placed my orange master cam down lower too. Really pumpy placing the 0.5 at the top jug... Leave the #3 C4 - you won't place it. Nuts work well in a lot of places. The direct start (straight up) is a little headier with no pro below you, but goes well.
By doblackj
Feb 26, 2013

Last Monday (2/18) I was climbing at Isles in the Sky in Joshua Tree (Bird of Fire Area). A father and son team were climbing the route next to us (Dolphin) and they accidentally mistook my Katanas for theirs. If you have them please respond to this post.
By Rolf Rybak
From: Vancouver BC
Apr 4, 2013

5.10 A. crux at the start ,but there are a couple of options. Solid jams all the way up with good gear. Wonderful hand jams at the top!

Some may want to rope up for the approach, and bring a long piece of webbing to rap out.
By Alex A
Sep 10, 2013

ONE THE BEST ROUTES IN THE PARK, SO MUCH FUN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!