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 ADVANCED
Sugarloaf, East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beast of Burden S 
Bird Man S 
Blue Velvet T,S 
Captain Fingers T 
Crushed Velvet T 
Dominion T 
East Chimney T 
East Face, The T 
Falcon, The S 
Fang-Left Side, The T 
Farley T 
Fracture, The T 
Gallows Pole (direct) T,S 
Grand Illusion T 
Harding's Chimney T 
Lady Luck T 
Lurch T 
Mini-Illusion, The S 
Monkey Flower T,S 
Morticia T 
Opus 7 S 
Over the Edge T 
Pinch a Loaf S 
Scheister T 
South Summit Bolt Ladder S 
Stone T 
Swallow Tail T,S 
Talking Heads T 
Tapestry T 
Taurus T 
Telesis S 

Bird Man 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 293
Submitted By: Salamanizer on Nov 23, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Description 

The difficulties start at the first bolt and rarely give up until you clip the anchors. Thin reachy moves, stemming, balance, power. Bird man will test your face climbing and footwork techniques and let you know exactly where you stand... or don't. This route is without a doubt one of the best face pitches in the Tahoe area.

Location 

Starts up a thin 5.11 crack to bolts, crosses over the Fang and continues up the face above.

Protection 

Cams, Thin to .5". Many bolts.


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By Michael Creel
Dec 19, 2013

This route was bolted on rap by myself and a couple of others who may prefer to remain in obscurity, around 1990. There is a difficult clip low down, because a big knob broke off on an early ascent. In retrospect, the route may have been better if the belay were a little lower down.