Bird-Foot Buttress Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Where you see this boulder next to a tree about ha...
High in the woods west of the Quarry, this is probably the best known outcrop in the area, largely because the American Dream Roof is such an unusual problem for the Lake. There are several other nice, moderate routes around the corner to the left. However the descriptions given in Swarting veer toward the contrived (i.e. "avoid using the lower right corner"), which I find aesthetically unsatisfying (I guess I'm more of a mountaineer than a boulderer). If you are willing to ignore the rules, there are at least 4-5 fun routes here.
The easiest approach is possibly to hike up from the group camp area. See the notes to the West of the Quarry section. However, the *most common* approach is to up the CCC trail, head back into the woods to the East Bluff Woods trail, and hike east through a gap and up to the next hilltop. See the beta photo for where to dive into the woods.
Climbing Season For the East Bluff 03 - West of the Quarry area.
Weather station 3.8 miles from here
11 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Bird-Foot Buttress
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Bird-Foot Buttress
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Bird-Foot Buttress:
Face Value 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
PG13 Trad, TR, 50'
Featured Route For Bird-Foot Buttress
American Dream Roof 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b WI
: Devil's Lake
: ... : Bird-Foot Buttress
There was a photo of American Dream Roof that hung above the bar at the now-defunct Conway's Pub. Inspired by the photo, many beer addled climbers hatched plans to hike out and climb ADR only to see those plans evaporate when the hangover set in. If you do make it out there, ADR is a must-do DL lead. American Dream Roof climbs the conspicuous overhang on the right side of the buttress. Start up the easy inside corner and traverse to the roof. From here, place your entire rack of cams under the ...[more] Browse More Classics in WI
BETA PHOTO: Boulder below Birdfoot.
BETA PHOTO: This is the slight turn off on your right as you h...
Jul 24, 2009
In my opinion the best approach to Birdfoot is to park at the lot on Hwy DL on the north side of the park, walk the flat access road straight south to the T intersection with the Ice Age trail, head east for a couple of hundred yards and you will see a tree on your right with a yellow tag on it, head into the woods there and walk south, trending left .1mi and you will be at the top of Birdfoot.
MUCH easier than a slog up the talus slope, albeit longer this approach is much more pleasant, especially with summer foliage. Total of 1.3mi walk.