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Bird-Foot Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
American Dream Roof T 
Hard Nose TR 
Left Turkey Foot T,TR 
Little Bird TR 
Mother and Apple Pie T,TR 
Pay Off T,TR 
Procto Pete and the Endos TR 
Right Turkey Foot T,TR 
Sick Vulture TR 
Squeeze Play T,TR 

Bird-Foot Buttress Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James M Schroeder, Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Doug Hemken on Oct 1, 2007
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High in the woods west of the Quarry, this is probably the best known outcrop in the area, largely because the American Dream Roof is such an unusual problem for the Lake. There are several other nice, moderate routes around the corner to the left. However the descriptions given in Swarting veer toward the contrived (i.e. "avoid using the lower right corner"), which I find aesthetically unsatisfying (I guess I'm more of a mountaineer than a boulderer). If you are willing to ignore the rules, there are at least 4-5 fun routes here.

Getting There 

The easiest approach is probably to hike from the group camp area. See the notes to the West of the Quarry section.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.8 miles from here

10 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Bird-Foot Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Bird-Foot Buttress:
American Dream Roof   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Bird-Foot Buttress

Featured Route For Bird-Foot Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: How could you not want to climb this?

American Dream Roof 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Bird-Foot Buttress
There was a photo of American Dream Roof that hung above the bar at the now-defunct Conway's Pub. Inspired by the photo, many beer addled climbers hatched plans to hike out and climb ADR only to see those plans evaporate when the hangover set in. If you do make it out there, ADR is a must-do DL lead. American Dream Roof climbs the conspicuous overhang on the right side of the buttress. Start up the easy inside corner and traverse to the roof. From here, place your entire rack of cams under the ...[more]   Browse More Classics in WI

Photos of Bird-Foot Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Boulder below Birdfoot.
BETA PHOTO: Boulder below Birdfoot.
Rock Climbing Photo: This is the slight turn off on your right as you h...
BETA PHOTO: This is the slight turn off on your right as you h...

Comments on Bird-Foot Buttress Add Comment
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By Tradoholic
Jul 24, 2009
In my opinion the best approach to Birdfoot is to park at the lot on Hwy DL on the north side of the park, walk the flat access road straight south to the T intersection with the Ice Age trail, head east for a couple of hundred yards and you will see a tree on your right with a yellow tag on it, head into the woods there and walk south, trending left .1mi and you will be at the top of Birdfoot.
MUCH easier than a slog up the talus slope, albeit longer this approach is much more pleasant, especially with summer foliage. Total of 1.3mi walk.

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