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Straight Shooter Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bird Crack T 
Captain Crunch T 
Crispy Critters T 
Forget Me Knot T 
Lazy Fireman, The S 
Orange Clonus T 
Sidewinder S 
Slabba Dabba Doo S 
Straight Shooter T 

Bird Crack 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: paul van betten
Page Views: 726
Submitted By: AJ on Jan 1, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

This is a possible second pitch to Straight Shooter. It begins by traversing 20' left from the SS anchor to a vertical seam with a bolt.

The reachy start is the crux but the climb is steep and engaging throughout. It's 60' long, with a 3 bolt anchor (2 old, 1 new).

This is harder than Mushroom People and a more technical lead. I thought the rock quality wasn't that great, but the immaculate first pitch may have clouded my judgment. An OK climb, but there are many better ones nearby.


Protection 

thin to 2"



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By Greg Barnes
Dec 21, 2006
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

We replaced the anchor this spring. Thought the route was solid 5.11 with questionable pro at the crux, and a slab to hit.

By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 14, 2007

Sandbagged, technical, reachy and a poor landing if you rip at the top of the crux. There is a bolt at your feet going into the crux, but it won't keep you from nailing the sloping ledge if you come off...so get something else in before you commit.

By Zappatista
Jul 6, 2007

Rotten. Sketch gear; my bro led it and fell for the first time on brass. It held, but just nasty rock, climbing was inaesthetic, not really sure what value this one has other than a funny story for Paul.

edit: The reason for the name is that PVB had a bird jet out of the crack and hit him in the chest, still hung on and sent. No birds in residence when I followed this one.

By Aaron S
May 30, 2008

I backed off this a while back because the fall looked kind of bad and the climbing not really worth it. Nice to see others agree with that sentiment.

By gregory huey
From: Irvine, CA
Nov 5, 2008

I climbed this route as a second pitch to Straight Shooter. Contrary to other comments here, I found it not too difficult to protect with two very small stoppers (I think I used a #2 and #3) - I had to, as I fell _alot_. I couldn't get even my finger tips into the super-thin crack, so I lay-backed it off one side of the crack and then tried to reach high for a finger-lock where the crack opens wide enough. However, I'm short and the right foothold is very tiny - almost a smear. I couldn't get a good finger-lock, but thats possibly because I put in a stopper (like a #6 maybe) in that position that interfered. So the protection went ok - it was the climbing I couldn't do right! Yeah, I'm ashamed to admit it, but finally I just had to pull on pro and aid this part of the route. I'd appreciate beta on how one is supposed to climb the start of this. It felt alot harder than the 10d (or 11a) I see it rated at - surely I was just using poor technique. So, yeah, beta requested.

By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Dec 14, 2011

This route is a sandbag. It's also pretty awesome if you're ok with small gear. Starting up the seam directly below the upper crack is great, but, like the upper route, felt a whole lot harder than the guidebook's 11a rating. RPs and/or slidernuts will keep you from hitting the ledge after the bolt up high.