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b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)
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Bird Cage 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: FA: Dick Williams, Steve Arsenault, & Wilber Cain - 1971
FFA: Henry Barber & Bob Anderson - 1972
Page Views: 4,738
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 23, 2006
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Getting horizontal.


Bird Cage is a great climb on a great section of the cliff. It takes the most central, obvious line in the Birdland area -- which is identified by a huge corner. The face that makes up the right side of this dihedral is Birdland; the corner itself is Bird Cage.

P1: Ascend this corner at challenging 5.8. Once you get to the roof, place pro (sometimes a fixed wire here), traverse out right, and get horizontal. A long reach will get you through it. Rap from a fixed anchor above, or use the Birdland bolt anchor directly to the right.


Standard Rack.

Photos of Bird Cage Slideshow Add Photo
vintage shoes!
vintage shoes!
Going over the ceiling on Birdcage. The last pro here are some fixed wires. Make sure you extend them sufficiently - rope drag can be really bad here.
Going over the ceiling on Birdcage. The last pro h...
Todd Mummert underneath the roof.
Todd Mummert underneath the roof.
Getting a foot up.  Ain't over yet.
Getting a foot up. Ain't over yet.
just plain fun!
just plain fun!
Comments on Bird Cage Add Comment
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By Rodrigo Cid
Aug 21, 2006

Without giving much beta, the thin delicate traverse under the roof is the crux.

By J. Nickel
Jun 2, 2008

When I led this route a year or two ago, there was no good anchor above the roof to rappel from. Recently, I led up the corner and traversed right to the Birdland anchor, skipping the dramatic roof moves. This was a really good pitch at about 5.9+ and allows for an easy descent. I think that it would also be possible to continue up the second pitch of Birdland from above the roof.

By Josh Dulberger
Sep 15, 2008

The 2nd pitch of Birdland up and to the right and is under-appreciated - it's nice 5.8 climbing, good pro, interesting corner/roof moves.

By Eric8
From: Framingham
Aug 8, 2009

of the few routes i have done at the gunks this was my favorite a little bit of everything

By BrianRH
Nov 22, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Climbed this last week. the two fixed wires under the roof at the crux are completely blown now. Just in case you were thinking about it. Still a classic.

By Michal Pasniewski
May 14, 2011

Yeah, the wires are broken, and moreover they take up valuable space for pro . You can place DMM peenut #4 and #6 just left of the wires ... if your hands are long enough (spicy moves there). Above the roof, a gray alien fits; camalot #3 is a solid horizontal piece and camalot #2 later if you wish.

By Beth McLendon
From: Gunks, NY
Aug 24, 2011

Two of the three rusty nuts that were there have been cleaned. There's a new fixed one in there now which looks fine and you can back it up on either side.

By Will Stat
Nov 11, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

There are presently two good fixed nuts under the roof that can be clipped with the same biner, and another old one with a rusty broken cable.

Use a 24" draw with another tripled draw to extend it 8" more to clear the roof - the 24" draw alone will give you serious drag on the lip.