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Bird Cage 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: FA: Dick Williams, Steve Arsenault, & Wilber Cain - 1971
FFA: Henry Barber & Bob Anderson - 1972
Page Views: 5,452
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 23, 2006

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Getting horizontal.

Description 

Bird Cage is a great climb on a great section of the cliff. It takes the most central, obvious line in the Birdland area -- which is identified by a huge corner. The face that makes up the right side of this dihedral is Birdland; the corner itself is Bird Cage.

P1: Ascend this corner at challenging 5.8. Once you get to the roof, place pro (sometimes a fixed wire here), traverse out right, and get horizontal. A long reach will get you through it. Rap from a fixed anchor above, or use the Birdland bolt anchor directly to the right.


Protection 

Standard Rack.



Photos of Bird Cage Slideshow Add Photo
Climbing the initial dihedral of Birdcage. Photo Copyright Sam Cervantes 2013.
Climbing the initial dihedral of Birdcage. Photo C...
Full view. There is a fixed nut or two at the crux.
Full view. There is a fixed nut or two at the crux...
vintage shoes!
vintage shoes!
Todd Mummert underneath the roof.
Todd Mummert underneath the roof.
just plain fun!
just plain fun!
Going over the ceiling on Birdcage. The last pro here are some fixed wires. Make sure you extend them sufficiently - rope drag can be really bad here.
Going over the ceiling on Birdcage. The last pro h...
Getting a foot up.  Ain't over yet.
Getting a foot up. Ain't over yet.
Comments on Bird Cage Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rodrigo Cid
Aug 21, 2006

Without giving much beta, the thin delicate traverse under the roof is the crux.

By J. Nickel
Jun 2, 2008

When I led this route a year or two ago, there was no good anchor above the roof to rappel from. Recently, I led up the corner and traversed right to the Birdland anchor, skipping the dramatic roof moves. This was a really good pitch at about 5.9+ and allows for an easy descent. I think that it would also be possible to continue up the second pitch of Birdland from above the roof.

By Josh Dulberger
Sep 15, 2008

The 2nd pitch of Birdland up and to the right and is under-appreciated - it's nice 5.8 climbing, good pro, interesting corner/roof moves.

By Eric8
From: Framingham
Aug 8, 2009

of the few routes i have done at the gunks this was my favorite a little bit of everything

By BrianRH
From: Jersey City, NJ
Nov 22, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Climbed this last week. the two fixed wires under the roof at the crux are completely blown now. Just in case you were thinking about it. Still a classic.

By Michal Pasniewski
May 14, 2011

Yeah, the wires are broken, and moreover they take up valuable space for pro . You can place DMM peenut #4 and #6 just left of the wires ... if your hands are long enough (spicy moves there). Above the roof, a gray alien fits; camalot #3 is a solid horizontal piece and camalot #2 later if you wish.

By Beth McLendon
From: Gunks, NY
Aug 24, 2011

Two of the three rusty nuts that were there have been cleaned. There's a new fixed one in there now which looks fine and you can back it up on either side.

By Will Stat
Nov 11, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

There are presently two good fixed nuts under the roof that can be clipped with the same biner, and another old one with a rusty broken cable.

Use a 24" draw with another tripled draw to extend it 8" more to clear the roof - the 24" draw alone will give you serious drag on the lip.

By carl al
Jun 24, 2014
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

I tested out those nuts this weekend. Still two fixed ones that looked decent and held my flailing whippers. The left one is a blown out old rusted thing.

I would highly recommend two double shoulder-length draws for the roof. I got the rope pinched and pumped out.

I'm still confused on the beta over the roof? High left foot and just then just a huge pull?

By Steve Hazel
From: Logan, NJ
Jul 20, 2014

Climbed this yesterday - hard and super fun route. Left a BD small purple nut left of the traverse b/c it looked like a good spot to have pro if the fixed wires and pin blow. But when I got to them all the fixed pro looks like its in good shape. You can get good pieces in every 5' or so (which I did and ended up back cleaning). I used small wires up to a #2 BD C4. Roof felt like the crux, the traverse was no problem. Definitely want to extend the pin and wires or you'll have to pull the roof twice like I did.