|b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)
Bird Cage is a great climb on a great section of the cliff. It takes the most central, obvious line in the Birdland area -- which is identified by a huge corner. The face that makes up the right side of this dihedral is Birdland; the corner itself is Bird Cage.
P1: Ascend this corner at challenging 5.8. Once you get to the roof, place pro (sometimes a fixed wire here), traverse out right, and get horizontal. A long reach will get you through it. Rap from a fixed anchor above, or use the Birdland bolt anchor directly to the right.
|By Rodrigo Cid|
Aug 21, 2006
Without giving much beta, the thin delicate traverse under the roof is the crux.
|By J. Nickel|
Jun 2, 2008
When I led this route a year or two ago, there was no good anchor above the roof to rappel from. Recently, I led up the corner and traversed right to the Birdland anchor, skipping the dramatic roof moves. This was a really good pitch at about 5.9+ and allows for an easy descent. I think that it would also be possible to continue up the second pitch of Birdland from above the roof.
|By Josh Dulberger|
Sep 15, 2008
The 2nd pitch of Birdland up and to the right and is under-appreciated - it's nice 5.8 climbing, good pro, interesting corner/roof moves.
Aug 8, 2009
of the few routes i have done at the gunks this was my favorite a little bit of everything
From: Jersey City, NJ
Nov 22, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Climbed this last week. the two fixed wires under the roof at the crux are completely blown now. Just in case you were thinking about it. Still a classic.
|By Michal Pasniewski|
May 14, 2011
Yeah, the wires are broken, and moreover they take up valuable space for pro . You can place DMM peenut #4 and #6 just left of the wires ... if your hands are long enough (spicy moves there). Above the roof, a gray alien fits; camalot #3 is a solid horizontal piece and camalot #2 later if you wish.
|By Beth McLendon|
From: Gunks, NY
Aug 24, 2011
Two of the three rusty nuts that were there have been cleaned. There's a new fixed one in there now which looks fine and you can back it up on either side.
|By Will Stat|
Nov 11, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
There are presently two good fixed nuts under the roof that can be clipped with the same biner, and another old one with a rusty broken cable.
Use a 24" draw with another tripled draw to extend it 8" more to clear the roof - the 24" draw alone will give you serious drag on the lip.
|By carl al|
Jun 24, 2014
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
I tested out those nuts this weekend. Still two fixed ones that looked decent and held my flailing whippers. The left one is a blown out old rusted thing.
I would highly recommend two double shoulder-length draws for the roof. I got the rope pinched and pumped out.
I'm still confused on the beta over the roof? High left foot and just then just a huge pull?
|By Steve Hazel|
From: Logan, NJ
Jul 20, 2014
Climbed this yesterday - hard and super fun route. Left a BD small purple nut left of the traverse b/c it looked like a good spot to have pro if the fixed wires and pin blow. But when I got to them all the fixed pro looks like its in good shape. You can get good pieces in every 5' or so (which I did and ended up back cleaning). I used small wires up to a #2 BD C4. Roof felt like the crux, the traverse was no problem. Definitely want to extend the pin and wires or you'll have to pull the roof twice like I did.