Bird Cage 5.10b
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b [details] |
| FA: | FA: Dick Williams, Steve Arsenault, & Wilber Cain - 1971 FFA: Henry Barber & Bob Anderson - 1972 |
| Submitted By: | Josh Janes on Feb 23, 2006 |
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Going over the ceiling on Birdcage. The last pro h...
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Description Bird Cage is a great climb on a great section of the cliff. It takes the most central, obvious line in the Birdland area -- which is identified by a huge left-facing corner. The face that makes up the right side of this dihedral is Birdland, the corner itself is Bird Cage. P1: Ascend this corner at challenging 5.8. Once you get to the roof, place pro (usually a fixed wire here), traverse out right, and get horizontal. A long reach will get you through it. Rap from a fixed anchor above.
Protection Standard Rack.
Todd Mummert underneath the roof.
| Getting horizontal.
| Getting a foot up. Ain't over yet.
| vintage shoes!
| just plain fun!
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By Rodrigo Cid Aug 21, 2006
| Without giving much beta, the thin delicate traverse under the roof is the crux. |
By J. Nickel Jun 2, 2008
| When I led this route a year or two ago, there was no good anchor above the roof to rappel from. Recently, I led up the corner and traversed right to the Birdland anchor, skipping the dramatic roof moves. This was a really good pitch at about 5.9+ and allows for an easy descent. I think that it would also be possible to continue up the second pitch of Birdland from above the roof. |
By Josh Dulberger Sep 15, 2008
| The 2nd pitch of Birdland up and to the right and is under-appreciated - it's nice 5.8 climbing, good pro, interesting corner/roof moves. |
By Ross Fadely Oct 16, 2008
| There is an anchor now from which one can rap. |
By Eric8 From: boston Aug 8, 2009
| of the few routes i have done at the gunks this was my favorite a little bit of everything |
By BrianRH Nov 22, 2010 rating: 5.10b
| Climbed this last week. the two fixed wires under the roof at the crux are completely blown now. Just in case you were thinking about it. Still a classic. |
By Michal Pasniewski May 14, 2011
| Yeah, the wires are broken, and moreover they take up valuable space for pro . You can place DMM peenut #4 and #6 just left of the wires ... if your hands are long enough (spicy moves there). Above the roof, a gray alien fits; camalot #3 is a solid horizontal piece and camalot #2 later if you wish. |
By Beth McLendon From: Gunks, NY Aug 24, 2011
| Two of the three rusty nuts that were there have been cleaned. There's a new fixed one in there now which looks fine and you can back it up on either side. |
By Will Stat Nov 11, 2012 rating: 5.10b/c
| There are presently two good fixed nuts under the roof that can be clipped with the same biner, and another old one with a rusty broken cable. Use a 24" draw with another tripled draw to extend it 8" more to clear the roof - the 24" draw alone will give you serious drag on the lip. |
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