|3,788 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.10b [details]|
|FA: ||FA: Dick Williams, Steve Arsenault, & Wilber Cain - 1971|
FFA: Henry Barber & Bob Anderson - 1972
|Submitted By: ||Josh Janes on Feb 23, 2006|
Going over the ceiling on Birdcage. The last pro h...
Bird Cage is a great climb on a great section of the cliff. It takes the most central, obvious line in the Birdland area -- which is identified by a huge left-facing corner. The face that makes up the right side of this dihedral is Birdland, the corner itself is Bird Cage.
P1: Ascend this corner at challenging 5.8. Once you get to the roof, place pro (usually a fixed wire here), traverse out right, and get horizontal. A long reach will get you through it. Rap from a fixed anchor above.
Todd Mummert underneath the roof.
Getting a foot up. Ain't over yet.
just plain fun!
|By Rodrigo Cid|
Aug 21, 2006
Without giving much beta, the thin delicate traverse under the roof is the crux.
|By J. Nickel|
Jun 2, 2008
When I led this route a year or two ago, there was no good anchor above the roof to rappel from. Recently, I led up the corner and traversed right to the Birdland anchor, skipping the dramatic roof moves. This was a really good pitch at about 5.9+ and allows for an easy descent. I think that it would also be possible to continue up the second pitch of Birdland from above the roof.
|By Josh Dulberger|
Sep 15, 2008
The 2nd pitch of Birdland up and to the right and is under-appreciated - it's nice 5.8 climbing, good pro, interesting corner/roof moves.
|By Ross Fadely|
Oct 16, 2008
There is an anchor now from which one can rap.
Aug 8, 2009
of the few routes i have done at the gunks this was my favorite a little bit of everything
Nov 22, 2010
Climbed this last week. the two fixed wires under the roof at the crux are completely blown now. Just in case you were thinking about it. Still a classic.
|By Michal Pasniewski|
May 14, 2011
Yeah, the wires are broken, and moreover they take up valuable space for pro . You can place DMM peenut #4 and #6 just left of the wires ... if your hands are long enough (spicy moves there). Above the roof, a gray alien fits; camalot #3 is a solid horizontal piece and camalot #2 later if you wish.
|By Beth McLendon|
From: Gunks, NY
Aug 24, 2011
Two of the three rusty nuts that were there have been cleaned. There's a new fixed one in there now which looks fine and you can back it up on either side.
|By Will Stat|
Nov 11, 2012
There are presently two good fixed nuts under the roof that can be clipped with the same biner, and another old one with a rusty broken cable.
Use a 24" draw with another tripled draw to extend it 8" more to clear the roof - the 24" draw alone will give you serious drag on the lip.