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 ADVANCED
Pedestal Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All The Way T 
Angle of the Dangle T 
Assume the Position T,TR 
Beginning, The T,TR 
Birch Tree Crack T,TR 
Blow-up T,TR 
Chimney's End T,TR 
Condolences T 
Congratulations T,TR 
Creation Crack T 
D.L.F.A T 
Dog, The TR 
Dyslexia TR 
End Of The End, The TR 
End, The T,TR 
Evelyn Bites The Crust TR 
F4 Ledges T 
Flake Route T,TR 
Golden Ledges T 
Hourglass T,TR 
Hourglass Direct TR 
Ironmongers T 
Ironmongers Super Direct T,TR 
Lethe T 
Lower Diagonal T,TR 
Modern Art TR 
Pedestal, The T,TR 
Pete's Lament TR 
Pine Box T 
Rich and Famous TR 
Sometime Crack T,TR 
Sometime Direct T 
Sometimes Left Side TR 
Sometimes Right T 
Stretcher, The TR 
Sweatshop T,TR 
Upper Diagonal T,TR 
Welfare Line TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Birch Tree Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 10,155
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Oct 28, 2002

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Travis Melin placing pro on the crux of Birch Tree...

Description 

Birch Tree Crack is found just off the CCC trail on the southeast side of the Pedestal Buttress. Climb up on blocky terrain about 5 feet to access the crack. The crack starts out with you in a small alcove. Step up on a loose block and perform a tricky sequence to ascend the first section of the crack (the section with less features and lots of white chalk). Once above this crux continue on slightly easier terrain. Try to jam the crack instead of using the features on the face. It makes things more interesting.


Protection 

Small to medium stoppers.



Photos of Birch Tree Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Creativity is a plus if the prosthetic foot doesn't fit in the crack.
Creativity is a plus if the prosthetic foot doesn'...
Caroline Lutz on Birch Tree Crack
Caroline Lutz on Birch Tree Crack
Placing gear on Birch Tree Crack.
Placing gear on Birch Tree Crack.
On Birch Tree for first time
On Birch Tree for first time
Ryan on Birch Tree , photo Luke Mouradian
Ryan on Birch Tree , photo Luke Mouradian
The Finish
The Finish
Me moving up through the crux of Birch Tree Crack
Me moving up through the crux of Birch Tree Crack
Birch Tree Crack
Birch Tree Crack
Birch Tree Crack 5.8
Birch Tree Crack 5.8
On lead.  Photo by Brice Wizner.
On lead. Photo by Brice Wizner.
The Whipper
The Whipper
AJ cruising Birch Tree.
AJ cruising Birch Tree.
John Markestad cracking up on Birch Tree.
John Markestad cracking up on Birch Tree.
Jeff says, "you lead Birch Tree, I'll belay."  He is founder of the Devil's Lake Trial and Error School of Rock Climbing whose motto is "Place well thy protection lest the earth rise up and smite thee..."
Jeff says, "you lead Birch Tree, I'll belay." He ...
This was his On-site of the route
This was his On-site of the route
Look at the determination on his face working on  <br />Birch Tree Crack.Photo by: Colin Erskine
Look at the determination on his face working on
...
great climb, if you want the "trick" to this route just ask
great climb, if you want the "trick" to this route...
John K. placing gear high up Birch Tree Crack. <br /> <br />Photo by Mike O.
John K. placing gear high up Birch Tree Crack.

Ph...
Woodchuck on the Birch Tree Crack Taken by Scott Danforth.
Woodchuck on the Birch Tree Crack Taken by Scott D...
Burt Lindquist and the Climbing Magazine photo that made him famous. Photo by Andrew Burr.
Burt Lindquist and the Climbing Magazine photo tha...
Burt, looking forward to some good moves
Burt, looking forward to some good moves
Ryan on Birch Tree, photo Luke Mouradian
Ryan on Birch Tree, photo Luke Mouradian
Maggie's first time out of the gym
Maggie's first time out of the gym
Travis Melin high on Birch Tree crack 5.8. Photo Mike Lopera.
Travis Melin high on Birch Tree crack 5.8. Photo M...
Birch Tree Crack  <br />
Birch Tree Crack
Leo warming up before working Birch Tree Crack in Feb. (Feb 2010).
Leo warming up before working Birch Tree Crack in ...
BDC send of Birch Tree
BDC send of Birch Tree
This is how happy we are to be climbing this stellar route in March! The temps were about 32-deg!
This is how happy we are to be climbing this stell...
Birch Tree Crack
BETA PHOTO: Birch Tree Crack
Comments on Birch Tree Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 19, 2012
By Jason Gandy
Oct 24, 2002

This is a great climb and one of my favorite in the park. The crux is a short two to three move sequence to get over the widest section of crack on the climb. The sequence is all about the right jams and footwork. After that enjoy the beautiful crack line on your way to the top.

The crux is worthy of the climb's rating, the rest is sustained easier climbing.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Jan 29, 2003

Birch Tree exemplifies the classic Devil's Lake rating system: Two moves of 5.10 plus ten moves of 5.6 equals a total rating of 5.8. I would agree with anyone who says that this "one move climb" is a desperate sandbag. Very accomplished climbers have flailed mightily on this one.

By Chase Clausen
May 7, 2003

This is a great climb for moderate leaders; great pro and rests abound. So skip the TR and climb this classic on the sharp end of the rope. I disagree with Jay, there are no 5.10 moves on this climb, not unless you don't know how to handjam. So get out there and lead this classic if you haven't yet.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
May 9, 2003

Chase,Yes, if you get the foot beta correct and do not end up too far left, there are no 5.10 moves. However, as the massive amount of chalk on the crux testifies, many climbers totaly screw up the sequence. Hence the 5.10 comment. I agree with you that this is a great lead. The pro is bomber and the crux is well protected. Even the crux gear can be easily placed from the alcove. The moves notwithstanding, I would say that based on ease of gear placement, this is one of the best first 5.8 leads in the park.

By Craig McCudden
May 20, 2003

___Yes, if you get the foot beta correct and do not end up too far left, there are no 5.10 moves

Too far left is _-Off Route_- I mean come on it's a crack. No move is 5.10 on the route.

Does anyone have a picture of the route with the Pine Tree still in Place? Come on Steve you gotta have one......

I saw it a Neptune in Co. but I'd REALLY like to get a copyIf you have one could you please e-mail me at:

Tapecat@columbus.rr.com

By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
May 23, 2003

This is a great route. I will look to see if i can find a picture with the tree still in place. we use to think we were clever by tying it off for the lead.

By Stephen Schaefgen
May 27, 2003

How long ago did the tree fall? We all know I'm not a fan of crowds when climbing, so I stay away from the East Bluff/East Rampart like a plague, but I do recall a large, six foot stump there several years back. Is that still there? Or, am I thinking of something else again...

By Tom Anderson-Brown
From: Madison, WI
May 27, 2003

You might be thinking about the giant stump sitting below Lower Diagonal.

By Stephen Schaefgen
May 28, 2003

Yup. You got it, Tom. That's what I'm thinking of. I remember leaning against that stump to belay, once. I also remember using it to cheat a little when I first started climbing. Now, I'd use it to cheat a lot! LOL!

By Craig McCudden
May 29, 2003

You can see the Upper D stump in the first of the 3 photos I posted.

The tree I'm talking about grew right out of the crack ~ON~ Birch Tree and has been gone for what like 20 years now.

By Colin Erskine
From: Madison, WI
Sep 19, 2005
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

What a great and classic climb. A few people were having trouble in the crux part but i pulled it off just fine. I even used a knee bar during it to reach up for the next holds.The route flows very nice and is great and i think everyone should try it.

By Paul Huebner
From: Portage, WI
Aug 18, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

After John Pruessner and I climbed this route in 4/89, we knew we could lead the Durrance on Devil's Tower. Like Queen's Throne -- this is an excellent -- but more difficult climb to learn how to jam up a crack in preparation for climbing at the Tower.

By Marty Combs
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 6, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Protects well, but the crux is definitely HARD for 5.8. Great lead for those confident with 5.8.

By Peter Beck
Nov 19, 2012

I had to bail late in the day on October 27th and left an entire top rope setup on Birch Tree Crack. All the hardware is marked with blue and yellow tape.

3 Camalot's each with a bright orange BD hoodwire biner
2 Omega Pacific pear shaped lockers
Blue/red/purple cordalette
Purpe 1 inch webbing

I'm a teacher and climbing coach in the area. Please contact me if you recovered the gear.
avoiceof@gmail.com