Bionic Crag is situated across the creek on the South side of the canyon 1.1 miles west of the parking for Anarchy Wall and about 300 yards west of The New Economy Cliff. The crag is actually something of a fin and quite a bit larger than it appears on first glance. There are presently five routes and one variation established on the crag. Difficulty ranges from roughly 5.11- to 5.12b/c. Most routes are mixed and a small rack of cams covering the full range is required to supplement the existing bolts. Bionic Crag gets some morning sun that will be nice for one route and good afternoon sun that is good the rest. The approach is presently by wading across the creek and a trivial hike to the base. JEFFCO Open Space may allow a tyro after petition, but presently tyrolean traverses will be removed by JEFFCO personnel.
Routes shown left to right in the photo are the following:
Bionic Crag is situated across the creek on the South side of the canyon 1.1 miles west of the parking for Anarchy Wall and about 300 yards west of The New Economy Cliff. There are several pullouts on the North side of the road and just West of The New Economy Cliff that provide parking for several cars each. Easy access is at the end of the South side guard rail.
Climb the steep, north-facing, double overhanging arete and face. This climb really has terrific movement and position but unfortunately passes through some crumbly stone about 2/3 of the way up. Start by liebacking up a boulder that is separated from the main wall and then get established under the arete. Expect a section of .11- before reaching a ledge with a hand rail. Move left into a crack and shoot for a sharp fin left of the main arete. The finishing moves on this steep fin are power...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
When Bionic crag was established, we installed a tyro across the creek. This was subsequently removed by JEFCO staff. There is now no way to access this crag or the New Economy Cliff without wading the creek. However, JEFCO will consider tyros after petition and on an individual needs basis. Most are likely to be turned down on the basis of liability issues, or so JEFCO staff will claim. Nonetheless, support would be needed to vet the petition.
I have never seen a tyrol last long there. Only ones that have seem to be accepted are The Mission, Creekside, and Armory. However, the latter two are in CC county. The higher the better, as most of Jeffco's concern is the hazard for boaters. I wouldn't buy the argument for fishing hazards.
Eventually if they ever make the canyon: "Clear Creek Canyon Park", there will be even more rules, but would be interested how they think they will enforce. Maybe good forum topic!?
However, maybe not a bad thing, in that there needs to be more control/presense with the rangers to mitigate the theft problems!
Off topic, but Richard, I never got a chance to thank you for your history contribution in my guidebook! Was an honor and much appreciated, and while you know, I feel that others should too that you were the one who got the seed planted for me to do it in the first place, in 2005.
We've gotten notice to reconvene the OS Climbing Task Force this fall to discuss CCC. As of this time, the overall guidelines for climbing has a prohibited item for tyrols under the item for Access (pgs 7-8):
Tyrolean traverses are prohibited unless approved in the site specific climbing management plan
If you do install a tyrol that is subsequently removed by the rangers, they said they will return it to you. Contact the OS office.
Yes, the other crags are in Clear Creek County, which I enjoy quite a bit (Creekside is one of the coolest experiences of the canyon). I haven't been relayed a concern other than to keep them out of the way of rafters as a safety item.
We hit Bionic Crag on the 12th of April and Clear Creek was already on the rise. Without a tyrolean, spring runoff this year will make access rather bold for a month or so (read nearly impossible). We found a fairly shallow region 100 yds upstream that worked well for wading. Access to the New Economy Cliff may be a bit more difficult. It might be worth contemplating a petition for a single Tyrolean to access both crags.
Darren, your routes and the new bouldering discoveries by Matt Samet and his crew have given Front Range climbers a whole new playground!! Props to you.
What a great looking wall!!! I will wade the waters or sign my name in blood to get access to this fine fin!! I may be a bit late entering the conversation, but is there still any possible way that I can still pitch in on this issue!?!? And if so...when and how????