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Donnelly Canyon
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.10 Corner T 
Ansaid Tower T 
Binou's Crack T 
Chocolate Corner T 
Crack Just to Left of Drainpipe, The T 
Dos Hermanos T 
Drainpipe T 
Elephant Man T 
Fuel Injected Hardbody T 
Generic Crack T 
Half Man, Half Alligator Shark T 
JARNI ZVRAT-KY T 
Let 'er Buck S 
Mr. Peanut T 
Naked and Dead, The T 
Naked and the Dead Variation T 
Ocean Negro T 
Owl Crack T 
Rainbow Sign T 
Sister Skywalker T 
Sleeve of Wizard T 
Thing, The T 
Twitterpated T 
Unknown T 
Unknown 5.10+ (left of Naked and the Dead) T 
Unknown AKA Reclamation T 
Unknown Pod Climb. T 

Binou's Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Sabine & Michel Jourdan
Page Views: 11,966
Submitted By: Jason Wells on Nov 2, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (287)
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Ben nearing the finger crack top.

Description 

Classic moderate climb. Very popular. Starts in a right facing corner next to the neon sign that says "Binou's" (actually just pecked into the rock - probably by Indians). Jam the crack until it gets tiny and a nice wide crack opens on the left, take a nice rest on a great knee jam, and scoot on up to the top.

Protection 

A few #1 and #.75 Camalots, maybe a #2 Camalot (be sure to take a look first, I can't really remember), and a mix of Aliens or similiar small pro at the top. Instead of the small stuff, you can use big pro for the top.


Photos of Binou's Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Hard to mistake this crack for some other climb...
BETA PHOTO: Hard to mistake this crack for some other climb...
The anchors are that way! Anna B's first send in the creek.
The anchors are that way! Anna B's first send in t...
A picture of me on Binou's, sadly I pinkpointed it, but it was my first trad climb.  A good place to start at the creek.
A picture of me on Binou's, sadly I pinkpointed it...
Paul Tickner showing excellent form about half-way up.
Paul Tickner showing excellent form about half-way...
Jax and Kaya
Jax and Kaya
Derek leading Binou's nice and early.  Only people out there.
Derek leading Binou's nice and early. Only people...
A Mottinger family tradition...going with the big gear is Dan
A Mottinger family tradition...going with the big ...
nearing the chains on binou's
nearing the chains on binou's
Binou's
Binou's
the name inscribed
the name inscribed
Both the crack in the corner and the left face are handy to use. Anchor's on the right, where the crack gets wide.
BETA PHOTO: Both the crack in the corner and the left face are...
Deb handling the top section (best NOT to get sucked into that crack on the left face).
BETA PHOTO: Deb handling the top section (best NOT to get suck...
Ben having a tough time on the smaller finger holds.  Probably wishing it was Supercrack
Ben having a tough time on the smaller finger hold...
binou's from the chains
binou's from the chains
binous stylin
binous stylin

Comments on Binou's Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Holly Barnard
Mar 25, 2002

This is a great leading intro to Indian Creek, but if you're a beginner, don't get to overconfident after ticking this one. Although, you can purely jam this for most of it, there are some wall features that allow for stemming and foot-outta-the-crack rests. The top will be a little more awkward if you have big fingers. Smaller hands will be able to get some good fingers in the thin crack. Doubles of the small stuff (blue, green, yellow aliens) can be useful if you're feeling nervous. Super-fun climb.
By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
Oct 7, 2002
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Atypical route for IC, but a lot of fun.

Better than twin cracks at Supercrack Buttress, but for its grade, it's not too bad.
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 29, 2004
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

This is an easy 8 - certainly not a 9. Fun climb and a good route for people who haven't jammed much,
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Nov 14, 2006

This is about as classic as it can get for the grade. Bring a few smaller pieces for the top. Unfortunate that "Binou's Crack" has been etched into the base of the wall. I guess that was before LNT practices.
By C Miller
Administrator
Nov 14, 2006

The FA of this was by Sabine & Michel Jourdan, who run Le Perroquet Vert, a really cool restaurant/hotel/gear store right at the Verdon Gorge.
By GhaMby
From: Heaven
Jan 12, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Maybe 8 to the first anchors, but solid 9 to the second, I think.
By Ian Cavanaugh
May 20, 2011

I didnt not actually climbs this route but rather a variation to it. I went straight up the crack on the left face (finger stacks to finger locks and once that closed out I transfered to the finger tip layback section on the top. I did not stem and did not use the wide crack at top. was a really fun and demanding variation.
By Matt Hoffmann
From: Squamish
Apr 20, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun second route in the Creek. Lots of places to rest and do sort of face climbing. Great introduction to get you feeling confident. Also a variety of gear to place.
By B. Smith
From: Englewood, CO
May 27, 2014

To add to the description of the gear, I used about (1) #1, (3).75s, (3).5s, (1-2).4s and maybe a .3.

This was my first Indian Creek climb and I had a lot of fun on it.

There are current three bolts at the anchor, and two of them are spinning. All look like they are in ok shape.