Classic moderate climb. Very popular. Starts in a right facing corner next to the neon sign that says "Binou's" (actually just pecked into the rock - probably by Indians). Jam the crack until it gets tiny and a nice wide crack opens on the left, take a nice rest on a great knee jam, and scoot on up to the top.
A few #1 and #.75 Camalots, maybe a #2 Camalot (be sure to take a look first, I can't really remember), and a mix of Aliens or similiar small pro at the top. Instead of the small stuff, you can use big pro for the top.
|By Holly Barnard|
Mar 25, 2002
This is a great leading intro to Indian Creek, but if you're a beginner, don't get to overconfident after ticking this one. Although, you can purely jam this for most of it, there are some wall features that allow for stemming and foot-outta-the-crack rests. The top will be a little more awkward if you have big fingers. Smaller hands will be able to get some good fingers in the thin crack. Doubles of the small stuff (blue, green, yellow aliens) can be useful if you're feeling nervous. Super-fun climb.
|By Ben Mottinger|
Oct 7, 2002
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Atypical route for IC, but a lot of fun.
Better than twin cracks at Supercrack Buttress, but for its grade, it's not too bad.
|By Andrew Gram|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 29, 2004
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c
This is an easy 8 - certainly not a 9. Fun climb and a good route for people who haven't jammed much,
From: Sacramento, CA
Nov 14, 2006
This is about as classic as it can get for the grade. Bring a few smaller pieces for the top. Unfortunate that "Binou's Crack" has been etched into the base of the wall. I guess that was before LNT practices.
|By C Miller|
Nov 14, 2006
The FA of this was by Sabine & Michel Jourdan, who run Le Perroquet Vert, a really cool restaurant/hotel/gear store right at the Verdon Gorge.
Jan 12, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
Maybe 8 to the first anchors, but solid 9 to the second, I think.
|By Ian Cavanaugh|
May 20, 2011
I didnt not actually climbs this route but rather a variation to it. I went straight up the crack on the left face (finger stacks to finger locks and once that closed out I transfered to the finger tip layback section on the top. I did not stem and did not use the wide crack at top. was a really fun and demanding variation.
|By Matt Hoffmann|
Apr 20, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Fun second route in the Creek. Lots of places to rest and do sort of face climbing. Great introduction to get you feeling confident. Also a variety of gear to place.