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Finger of Fate
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BINO BOOK T 
Open Book T 
TIPTOES T 

BINO BOOK 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 800', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Season: spring -fall
Page Views: 1,197
Submitted By: Shawn Deitrick on Jan 25, 2013

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Summit photo of Don after we did Bino,s Book.

Description 

Pitch 1 Start far right of the Open Book route. GO until you can see some pine trees up the wall. Then start climbing just right of the trees on the lower face. This is class 4 scrambling to the trees. Climb until the tress are reached, then go left to a bigger flat spot. This the end of the pitch
Pitch 2 is the crux of the climb. At this point start up left of the balay you'll see a horizontal crack. This is a awkward crack it is the only place for protection. Once past this spot continue up the face into a nice finger crack. At the top of face there are ledges, this is the end of pitch 2.
Pitch 3 Start climbing up the face. The pitch will weave back and forth so be aware of this. This pitch is about a 120 feet long. Pitch goes at 5.7
Pitch 4 Starts at a big chimney. Climb up the chimney until there is a big block in the way. There will be a bunch of slings wrapped around the huge block. This is the end of the pitch. The summit block is ahead.
Pitch 5 Make your way up by a hole under the summit block. It gets a little tight. I personally like to break this into two pitches so that way it cuts down on the rope drag when going to the top. At this point the summit block is ahead. There is a 4 foot gap that has to be jumped. Once the gap is crossed then go left to the arete. Once there you'll see a flat ledge then make a mantal move on to the face. A piton is there to clip to thats the only protection until the top is reached. Then make your way up the face to the top.

Location 

The route is on the north face of the finger. Start to the far right of the Open Book then there is Tiptoes up the arete. Look for the pine trees up on the face, and that is start of the route. Then get down through the regular decent route from the open book.

Protection 

Need just a standered rack with a 4 cam for the chimney. Make sure to have plenty slings.


Photos of BINO BOOK Slideshow Add Photo
Don Cambell on pitch 3
Don Cambell on pitch 3
Don Cambell on pitch 3
Don Cambell on pitch 3
Bino's Book is on the right side of the face. It's in the book on the right of the photo.
Bino's Book is on the right side of the face. It's...

Comments on BINO BOOK Add Comment
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By KellyElder
Jun 28, 2014

Name should be Bino's Book.
1st ascent Kelly Elder and Matthew Childs 1976 (or 1977?).
Original route description at Elephant's Perch in Sun Valley.
Named for Alan "Bino" Patterson.