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Binary Surd 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 240'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Rossiter, solo 1988.
Page Views: 36
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Aug 24, 2003

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Weird moves at the top of pitch 1, The Box in the ...

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Description 

A decent route following the R side of Fo. Wander up the Mallory Cave trail past Red Devil, the Box, angle SW, and head to the third strata of Dinosaur Mt. This lies just L of the relatively-narrow channel/groove capped with a large chockstone between Fo & Fum. Probably not heavily traveled but worth the effort for those in search of a brief (240') flatiron explore. Start approximately 30 feet from the R edge of Fum in a shallow, inviting, L-angling groove with good face holds.

P1. Angle slightly L up this shallow groove. Find a crux about 90' up as you hop up past an angled ledge. Now head up. Continue to a tree at 120' for a belay (optional).

P2. Continue up to a second crux with double sidepulls and good smearing as you shuffle up. This is somewhat reminiscent of the South Platte here. Move slightly R and then continue to the top on easier terrain. Hopefully you'll find a pleasant breeze at the summit.

Descend via a 50' downclimb with a few 4th or low 5th class moves to the slot between Fo & Fum (the next flatiron N). Move N up over a boulder and head for a hole/cave to the Fum-Dum col. Wander down a loose trail back to the base.

Protection 

to #2 camalot with an emphasis on smaller pro/cams.


Photos of Binary Surd Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: John Saccardi follows on the long moderate slab of...
John Saccardi follows on the long moderate slab of...
Rock Climbing Photo: P1 .
P1 .

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By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 5, 2003

This is a pretty good route and could probably be done in a single pitch with a 70m rope. With a 60m I got pretty close to the top. The moves did seem unusual for a Flatiron slab route, I actually found a reasable amount of pro too. The base of this route is only a few feet off the Dinosaur Mtn trail ...

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