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East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"The Route on the Left" aka Sand in the Vaseline S 
Alligator Soup S 
Anarchy S 
Antline T 
Beat Me Up, Scotty S 
Beginning of the End a/k/a Sandy Monster S 
Big Sky S 
Binary  T,S 
Bob's Buttress Crack T 
Dancesatmoonrise aka The Passion S 
Death of a Dinosaur  S 
Diesel and Dust S 
End of an Era S 
End to End S 
Extremist (former entered as Civil Disobedience), The S 
Inner Sanctum T,TR 
New Era T 
New Generation T,S 
Ormes' Chimney T 
Sandy Beaches T 
Skyline Pig S 


YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Bob & Carrie Robertson, 1994
Page Views: 533
Submitted By: matt bruton on Oct 19, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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  • 2015 Raptor Closure - Lifted MORE INFO >>>
  • Reopened after the floods. 2015 Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Climb New Era's rightmost finger crack start to the old angle iron bolted face. Keep your eyes open for loose rock on this one.


    This is directly right of New Era.


    Small to medium stoppers and cams.

    Comments on Binary Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By RyanJAnderson
    From: Colorado Springs
    Aug 20, 2013

    FYI - right above the New Era's first pitch anchors (5-7 bolts?), the rock turns to sugar and two bolts in a row are hanging on by a prayer. Downclimbed/traversed to New Era anchors. You would need huge stone to finish it as is.
    By Isaac H.
    Oct 11, 2014

    I agree with Ryan. I know Logan B. and Andrew S. climbed it late this summer and made it through the sugar, but I guess scary pins don't matter if you never fall right?

    Anyway, the first section is some of my favorite climbing in the park. I'd love to get a chance to reinforce the pitons that are coming out.

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