Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Circus Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air Show T 
Bimbo's Bulge T 
Break On Through T 
Sentinel Chimney T 
Zoo View T 

Bimbo's Bulge 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Rich Gottlieb, Jack Carter 1977
Page Views: 1,798
Submitted By: Alexander Blum on Jul 8, 2010  with updates from nbrown

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

P1: Climb the first pitch of Sentinel Buttress.

P2: From the crows nest step up and left, aiming for a triangular roof. Careful, getting established under this roof is tricky. Yard over the overhang and get situated below the next one. Plug some bomber gear and make sure you look down at the 100+ feet of air below you after you ape out the roof.

Since the crux hold recently broke (in 2015?), the route went from 10c to probably more like 11b.

Location 

Circus Wall

Protection 

Rack of singles should do it


Comments on Bimbo's Bulge Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: London (sort of)
Dec 23, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

5.9 on thin horizontals for the first 25 feet, then up and left into an alcove under the "Bulge." A V1 boulder problem, very well protected, gets you through the crux overhanging section.
By Emil Briggs
Jun 8, 2015

A key hold at the crux broke off a little while ago. I have not been up it since then but a friend of mine has and thinks it's probably a 5.11 move now.
By Bill Webster
Jun 8, 2015

I recently took a look at the route to see if its doable without the hold that broke off.

First, protection for the crux is no problem. There is good gear about 1.5 ft below the old high spot. Second, I couldn't figure out a way to do it, but I think that a solid 5.11 climber (or a tall one) could use whats left of the hold to reach the bucket.

Lastly, there is a really cool 5.8-5.9 version of this route that starts at the same spot as the original route. Climb straight up the blunt arete. Stay right of the low crux. Angle left into the corner. Instead of moving left to the roof just move straight up. The broken hold is a blow to moderate climbers but this variation is well worth doing.
By nbrown
From: western NC
Jun 20, 2015

Did this route today and found the roof to be mid 5.11. There is a good small pocket/edge at the base of where the old hold used to be. I moved more left under the roof than usual and used the pocket for a right handhold to make the big reach. Also, you can get a finger size cam above your head if you want to top rope the move. This route climbs almost the same as before, just with a bigger reach from a smaller hold. Fun stuff!
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!