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Westbay Wall
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Billy's Ghost Dance S 
Jason's Bicep S 
Nose in a Day S 

Billy's Ghost Dance 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 105'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Brian Shelton and Stewart Green
Page Views: 1,733
Submitted By: Livia on Mar 12, 2005

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BETA PHOTO: Westbay Wall - from path.


This is the second route on this wall but the first easily seen from the path. The first route (currently a project, 5.13+) is behind some trees around the north corner of the wall. From photo, Billy's Ghost Dance is the left of the two routes.

This route shares the first two bolts straight up jugs with Nose in a Day (5.7) and then veers left to more delicate slab climbing. From the top of the route, Pike's Peak looms over the Whale's Tail Wall on the other side of the canyon.

As mentioned in the guidebook, there is a great deal of loose rock laying around at the top of these two 100 foot climbs.


5 bolts to a two bolt anchor with rings.

Photos of Billy's Ghost Dance Slideshow Add Photo
Deb near the 4th bolt.  Note, a #3 Camalot can be ...
Deb near the 4th bolt. Note, a #3 Camalot can be ...

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By Stewart M. Green
May 24, 2005

This route is cleaning up, so in the newest guide printing, I've dropped the route rating to 5.5....
By Stewart M. Green
Apr 29, 2010

I removed the Fixe ring anchors from Billy's Ghost Dance a week ago and added new bolt hangers with quicklinks. So many people had been top-roping through the rings that the stainless steel was worn down at least 25%. Don't top-rope through the quicklinks on the route. It's always best to use your own gear, so you can create an equalized top-rope anchor, which puts less stress on the bolts. The cost of replacing the Fixe ring anchors with new ones is almost $30. To find out more about why you shouldn't top-rope directly through bolt anchors and how to rig a top-rope on bolts, read my article at about.com climbing.about.com/od/topropec....
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