Billy Shears  5.9-

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet Consensus:  5.8+ [details] FA:  Ray Dobkin, Joe Ferguson, Max Strumia 1982 Submitted By:  Dana Bartlett on Nov 4, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Area closures MORE INFO >>> 2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

P1: Move up the right side of the arch (dirty) to the right side of the roof and a good stance. Climb the short crack through the overhang (crux), then go right to a belay/rappel tree or go up to the GT ledge.

P3: From the GT ledge, a good 7+/8 move off the ledge leads to sustained pumpy jug-hauling through a devious notch. The last 25-30' is grassy and not well protected, but it's 5.3 at that point - you can traverse left to whatever gear is on Arch (not much).

Location 

The easiest way to find this if you are not well acquainted with the cliff is to go up the trail that is across from where the Stairmaster meets the carriage road; there is a Mohonk Preserve sign there. At the cliff, turn left and walk 100 feet or so. The Arch is just around the corner from a prominent arete.

Protection 

Standard 'Gunks rack