"Billy Goat Arete" is the arete on the north edge of the east face of Hillbilly Rock. It could also be called the Northeast Arete. I spotted this line today and it is a fun climb, but it is not in any guidebook. There is a crack about 3-4' left of the arete that makes for great holds and also pro. This would be an excellent first lead for a beginner, because unlike most Flatiron routes there is quite a bit of pro available. You can get some good practice placing gear in cracks.
This climb is about 200' long. Start at the base of the ridge and head up, staying just left of the Arete. About 20' up you will reach the crack, which is generally finger sized. Continue up excellent rock to the top which was draped with slings. The fact that there was chalk in the crack shows this route is somewhat popular.
Descend by either rapping 60' north off the summit, or downclimb the North Face route.
Sarah stopping to enjoy the view heading up Billy ...
BETA PHOTO: Follow the right ridgeline.
|By shad O'Neel|
Apr 29, 2003
When I saw how nice this crack looked from the ground, I had to run up it just for fun. It seems to be the most aesthetic line on the crag. Was much easier than the downclimb.
|By Scott Edlin|
From: boulder, co
Jun 25, 2006
rating: 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Worth one star only because it protects far better than any other east face Flatiron climb I've been on. Two pitches with an obvious large belay ledge, mediocre rock, and poor descent options.
|By Dominick Morone|
Aug 28, 2006
I begin this route about 20 feet up from the base on the north side and used all of a 60m rope to top out. I lowered my partner down the north side and then self-rappelled off a big west pointing horn. It didn't seem too dicey, but I will remember to pack webbing and rap rings to leave behind on every climb from now on.
|By E Johnson|
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 13, 2009
Finger crack may be 20 feet above the top of the boulder at the base, but if you start to the left of the boulder going up the flake undercling, it's more like 30 feet and not easily discernable.
Fun climbing for a new trad leader. Would like to do the other routes here but:
The approach absolutely sucked; the rain have caused the grasses and ferns to grow so tall you can't see what you are stepping on. And it is very steep. Miserable approach on a hot day.
|By Rob White|
Mar 27, 2012
Thought this an excellent downclimb after scrambling up the east face left side, easy hand and finger jams almost the entire way. A worthwhile stop on the way out after ascending Stairway to Heaven.
|By Rick Blair|
Aug 17, 2013
rating: 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
With a 30 meter rope in 3 pitches: 100 feet to first nice belay ledge, 75 feet to second large belay ledge, 75 feet to top.
On descent, a 30 meter rope gets you to large ledge/platform 10 feet from walking territory. Easy 3rd class to the ground from there. There was a static rope around the huge summit block. This would make a good place for a chain anchor in my opinion.
Check out my beta photo on the main Hillbilly page for a much more civilized approach. Watch out for poison ivy!
2 stars, because I think this would be a great first lead.
|By Brian C.|
From: Longmont, CO
Jun 1, 2014
rating: 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
This route was very enjoyable and is totally worth your time if looking for a short climb or solo close to the car.