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Sunset North
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Bill's Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Bill Smith and Steve Jones - 1977
Page Views: 2,009
Submitted By: Danny Inman on May 6, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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Tom O. moves up the lower section of Bill's Route,...


This route begins just left of Jefferson Airplane. Follow the left-leaning crack to the prominent roof. Negotiate this (crux) and climb the steep corner and face to a two-bolt anchor.


Same as Jefferson Airplane.


Standard rack, thin wires and tcu's protect the crux.

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About 20 feet up doing a travers.
About 20 feet up doing a travers.
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By saxfiend
From: Decatur, GA
Jul 8, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Great lead! Stays on you most of the way. The squeeze V-slot is an interesting problem to solve.

By charlie collins
Sep 1, 2008

the vslot would be an interesting lead for a 5.8 leader; its pretty awkward or i suck at vslots; hard to tell

By Joey Wolfe
Sep 21, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

The V-slot, once your back is in, is a no hands rest. So don't let it intimidate you. It is awkward to get into and out of, but just relax and THINK. I thought it was just a touch PG-13 in a couple of places, typical Sunset finish.

By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Jun 2, 2009

Better gear out left at crux is bigger and reduces rope drag when extended. Relieved to find it. Heady old school 5.8!

By Ben Hogan
From: Chattanooga, TN
Jul 4, 2009

Somehow managed to get a red BD stopper stuck about 3/4 the way up in a hole. Was running on tight schedule and had to leave it, if anyone gets it out and feels like they need to return it :) ... just PM me. Great climb by the way.

By cshuey77
From: Asheviile,nc
May 27, 2010

v slot would climb easier if the gear was a little better.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 25, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

a microstopper protects the slot nicely- a #4 or something like that is bomber.

also, for those folks who are a little spooked by the slot- you dont actually climb it- you face climb up and left, only marginally entering it, but never actually needing to climb it.

a great route!