Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Sunset North
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Sense of Adventure 
Alpha Omega 
Arena, The 
Banshee 
Beginner's Route 
Bill's Route 
Broemel's Route 
Broken Arrow 
Bubble Bath 
Copperhead 
Cornerstone 
Crazy Eights 
Fault Line 
Flagstone 
Flute Loops 
Friday the Thirteenth 
Ghost Dancers 
Grand Cave, The 
Heavy Hands 
Horribilus Maximus 
Jams and Shams 
Jefferson Airplane 
Jennifer's World 
Lefthand Crack 
Lichen to Lose It 
Mineral Fright 
More Fun with Dick and Jane 
One-Ten 
Prisoners of Zenda 
Prow, The 
R.J. Gold 
Righthand Crack 
Rusty's Crack 
S'More 
Scare Voyager 
Scream Wall 
Scream Wall Direct 
Slip Stream 
Spring Break 
Stan's Crack 
Stan's Crack Direct Finish 
Sticht in Time 
Sunset Boulevard 
Terrier in Trouble 
Test Tube 
Thin Pockets 
Toothpick 
Total Eclipse 
Water in Motion 
Unsorted Routes:

Bill's Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Bill Smith and Steve Jones - 1977
Page Views: 2,014
Submitted By: Danny Inman on May 6, 2007
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Tom O. moves up the lower section of Bill's Route,...

Description 

This route begins just left of Jefferson Airplane. Follow the left-leaning crack to the prominent roof. Negotiate this (crux) and climb the steep corner and face to a two-bolt anchor.


Location 

Same as Jefferson Airplane.


Protection 

Standard rack, thin wires and tcu's protect the crux.



Photos of Bill's Route Slideshow Add Photo
About 20 feet up doing a travers.
About 20 feet up doing a travers.
Comments on Bill's Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Jul 8, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Great lead! Stays on you most of the way. The squeeze V-slot is an interesting problem to solve.

By charlie collins
Sep 1, 2008

the vslot would be an interesting lead for a 5.8 leader; its pretty awkward or i suck at vslots; hard to tell

By Joey Wolfe
Sep 21, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

The V-slot, once your back is in, is a no hands rest. So don't let it intimidate you. It is awkward to get into and out of, but just relax and THINK. I thought it was just a touch PG-13 in a couple of places, typical Sunset finish.

By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Jun 2, 2009

Better gear out left at crux is bigger and reduces rope drag when extended. Relieved to find it. Heady old school 5.8!

By Ben Hogan
From: Chattanooga, TN
Jul 4, 2009

Somehow managed to get a red BD stopper stuck about 3/4 the way up in a hole. Was running on tight schedule and had to leave it, if anyone gets it out and feels like they need to return it :) ... just PM me. Great climb by the way.

By cshuey77
From: Asheviile,nc
May 27, 2010

v slot would climb easier if the gear was a little better.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 25, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

a microstopper protects the slot nicely- a #4 or something like that is bomber.

also, for those folks who are a little spooked by the slot- you dont actually climb it- you face climb up and left, only marginally entering it, but never actually needing to climb it.

a great route!