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West Face
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Man Without a Planet 
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No Holds for Bonzo 
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Some Like it Hot 
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Tulgey Wood 
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Way Layed 
Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) 

Billie Bear Cranks the Rad 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Bill Hatcher, Todd Skinner, Rick Erker. 1985
Page Views: 546
Submitted By: Sean Nelb on Jun 11, 2011
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Description 

Fingers! Billie Bear climbs a thin crack at the bottom of the huge dihedral on the West Face's right side. Pick your way up the delicate climbing down low on Abject Cathexis until you reach the horizontal break. Traverse right into another finger crack that steepens and leans slightly left. Follow this to the top of the column that makes up the left side of the South West Buttress. Clean, sequential, pumpy, and difficult, but with excellent pro. Crank it!


Location 

Start on the Abject Cathexis finger crack at the right side of the West Face.


Protection 

Finger sized nuts, cams. Bolted anchor.



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By slim
Administrator
Sep 23, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

really good route for trying to break into easy 12. actually, for the tower it is probably the perfect route for doing so. it is pretty short, most of the climbing is easy, the crux is only about 15 feet of straight forward climbing that is easier than it looks. the left wall is lichen covered, but fortunately quite grippy. you can place great stoppers that don't interefere with the locks. the crux is probably just taking the pain of the locks. surprised it doesn't get more traffic, i think the published grade kind of keeps folks off it.