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Fingers! Billie Bear climbs a thin crack at the bottom of the huge dihedral on the West Face's right side. Pick your way up the delicate climbing down low on Abject Cathexis until you reach the horizontal break. Traverse right into another finger crack that steepens and leans slightly left. Follow this to the top of the column that makes up the left side of the South West Buttress. Clean, sequential, pumpy, and difficult, but with excellent pro. Crank it!
Start on the Abject Cathexis finger crack at the right side of the West Face.
Finger sized nuts, cams. Bolted anchor.
Sep 23, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
really good route for trying to break into easy 12. actually, for the tower it is probably the perfect route for doing so. it is pretty short, most of the climbing is easy, the crux is only about 15 feet of straight forward climbing that is easier than it looks. the left wall is lichen covered, but fortunately quite grippy. you can place great stoppers that don't interefere with the locks. the crux is probably just taking the pain of the locks. surprised it doesn't get more traffic, i think the published grade kind of keeps folks off it.