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Bilbo's Hanging Garden Crack 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type: Trad, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Galen Kirkwood, Byron Neal, 1975
Page Views: 513
Submitted By: mschlocker on Nov 5, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: Bilbo's Hanging Garden

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Description 

A mostly finger sized crack whose business starts right off the deck. Almost feels like a sport climb with some initial powerful and balancy moves. Once past the crux, follow sustained 5.9 moves up to the roof where you traverse right a little and finish up a short offwidth.


Location 

Up the hill past Vawter's Dihedral area but below Apostrophe. A short cliff with a small roof. The roof is split into a very short offwidth section. Can walk around to get off or set a toprope.


Protection 

Mostly smaller gear, but the anchor is best with ~3.5" pieces, so take some along. The clear crux is between the first and second protection pieces. The crux is hard and insecure. There is high potential for a short groundfall if you fall on your way to your second piece. A toprope can be had if you feel unfomfortable leading this.



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