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 ADVANCED
Limbo Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abacab TR 
Apostrophe T,TR 
Aqualunge S 
As the Crow Flies S 
Baby Dihedral T 
Back to Basics T 
Batso's Resurrection TR 
Bilbo's Hanging Garden Crack T 
Cake Walk T 
Craig's Chimney TR 
Craig's Crack T 
Crow Boulder S,TR 
Deviate Behavior S 
Digitalis TR 
Double Trouble S 
Escape From The Underworld S 
Facial Tissue TR 
Indecision TR 
Kathy's Memorial T 
Mighty Monger S 
Monkey Dance S 
Rift, The T 
Standard Deviation S 
Top of the Pops.  T 
Tower, The S 
Turkey Chute T 
Vawter's Dihedral T 
Volume I TR 
Zig Zag TR 

Bilbo's Hanging Garden Crack 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Galen Kirkwood, Byron Neal, 1975
Page Views: 571
Submitted By: mschlocker on Nov 5, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Bilbo's Hanging Garden

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Description 

A mostly finger sized crack whose business starts right off the deck. Almost feels like a sport climb with some initial powerful and balancy moves. Once past the crux, follow sustained 5.9 moves up to the roof where you traverse right a little and finish up a short offwidth.

Location 

Up the hill past Vawter's Dihedral area but below Apostrophe. A short cliff with a small roof. The roof is split into a very short offwidth section. Can walk around to get off or set a toprope.

Protection 

Mostly smaller gear, but the anchor is best with ~3.5" pieces, so take some along. The clear crux is between the first and second protection pieces. The crux is hard and insecure. There is high potential for a short groundfall if you fall on your way to your second piece. A toprope can be had if you feel unfomfortable leading this.


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