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Bilbo's Hanging Garden Crack
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2 from 4
votes
Routes in Limbo Area
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Abacab TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Apostrophe T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Aqualunge S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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As the Crow Flies S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Baby Dihedral T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Back to Basics T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Batso's Resurrection TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Beke's Wild Ride T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Bilbo's Hanging Garden Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bongo Fury T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cake Walk T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13 |
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Chimney Sweep TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Chossy Bossy T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Craig's Chimney TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Craig's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Deviate Behavior S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Digitalis TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Double Trouble S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Escape From The Underworld S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Facial Tissue TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fare Thee Well T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Gratitude S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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History Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Indecision TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Kathy's Memorial T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lord of the Flies TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mighty Monger S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Mission Obscurity T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Monkey Dance S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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No Ticket TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Punk Rock Show TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Revision S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Rift, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Salty Slug, The S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Second Edition TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Sloppy Seconds T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Standard Deviation S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Top of the Pops T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tower, The S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Turkey Chute T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Vawter's Dihedral T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Volume I T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Volume II TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Zig Zag TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 35 ft (11 m) |
| FA: | Galen Kirkwood, Byron Neal, 1975 |
| Page Views: | 2,094 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | mschlocker on Nov 5, 2007 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
A mostly finger sized crack whose business starts right off the deck. Almost feels like a sport climb with some initial powerful and balancy moves. Once past the crux, follow sustained 5.9 moves up to the roof where you traverse right a little and finish up a short offwidth.
Location
Up the hill past Vawter's Dihedral area but below Apostrophe. A short cliff with a small roof. The roof is split into a very short offwidth section. Can walk around to get off or set a toprope.
Protection
Mostly smaller gear, but the anchor is best with ~3.5" pieces, so take some along. The clear crux is between the first and second protection pieces. The crux is hard and insecure. There is high potential for a short groundfall if you fall on your way to your second piece. A toprope can be had if you feel unfomfortable leading this.
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