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Burgers and Fries
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bilbo Baggins T 
Burgers and Fries T,TR 
Catch Me T 
Catch Me Quick T 
Catch Me Quicker T 
Catch You T,S 
Councillor's Groove T 
Dusty Eyes T 
Exit Stage Left T 
French Leave S 
Frodo's First Step T 
Gollum T 
High Boltage Line S 
Jammers' Delight T 
Libya Sucks T 
Movin' on Over T,TR 
Nookie Monster T 
Peaches and Cream S 
Prey T 
Smeagol T 
Split Personality T 
Who Needs Pro? T 
Wisecrack T 

Bilbo Baggins 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 733
Submitted By: kBobby on May 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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The groove at the bottom is dirty, but otherwise isn't that bad. There isn't any pro until you are almost at the ledge above, but the climbing seems pretty secure (for a vee-groove). The crack above is great, if a bit muddy.


South of the Main Wall of Burgers and Fries. Head up a small side trail through the trees, and go right at the wall. You will come to a left-facing groove/dihedral. This groove is the start for Bilbo Baggins. Around the corner to the right is Frodo's First Step (5.5), which could be used as an alternate start to Bilbo Baggins.


Gear to 2 inches. Two bolts at the top. Walk off left.

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By Clint Landrock
Jun 17, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

In my opinion this is the best crack climb at Burgers and Fries. There is only one 5.9-ish move at about 2/3rds up, and its well protected, the rest is pretty cruiser 5.7 crack climbing. Contrary to the description, the bottom is clean and alot of fun.
By Alex Ch
From: Fairfield, CT
Jul 3, 2014

I don't understand the description of this climb. It is clean, easy, and 5.7 - still fun
By Scott Stevenson
From: SLC, Utah
Jul 5, 2015
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

I agree that the description of this route is really confusing. The route starts with awesome gear and is clean. It is pretty awesome 5.7 climbing with a sort of awkward move to get off the ledge about 2/3 of the way up. I wouldn't call it 5.9 at all. The Squamish Guide book says this route is 5.8 and I thought it was a little soft even for that rating. Regardless, it was a really fun.
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