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Armin Gooden starting the crux bit on P2 with 3 pi...
This climb ascends the obvious, and namesake, left-facing dihedral on the Bihedral Wall. The first pitch is supposed to go at 7, while the second pitch is 8. I thought both pitches were a bit on the sandbag side. Little wonder that Rossiter describes this route as "somewhat of a classic".
P1. Ascend the dihedral with good pro all the way up, using face holds on the left where necessary. Traverse left past the bolts on top of Rhodian Shores (slab climb described elsewhere), and continue left and up on nebulous terrain until you reach a spacious ledge. Belay here with less-than-comforting gear (small).
P2. Continue up the obvious, but smaller, left-facing dihedral directly above to the top (8+/9-). While I am hesitant to add an s, good gear is not really available on the second pitch until after the first crux, and the chances of a painful fall at that point are about 100%. Best to be solid at the grade.
Descent: there are now numerous rap points. Two single raps on a 60m or a 50m rope will work if you go to the lowest intermediate chains and then scramble down the final bit to the ground.
Standard rack to #4 Camalot sized.
Bo Pihl starting out on P1.
Why add bolted anchors to a climb that's been ther...
Ben and Eva on the second pitch.
|By George Bell|
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 1, 2001
This is a fun route but a little spicy on the second pitch. Also, I found it hard to find a good belay anchor at the top, which is a mass of rotten flakes. I went 30 ft farther to a large tree! The latest Rossiter tells you to walk off east, but I think it works out better to go west. You can traverse east back to the base of the climb (passing right under the 12a Edge of Reality).
|By Kreighton Bieger|
May 27, 2001
Odd comment about the gear on P2. I did this route today and found great gear. To avoid rope drag, I placed two small cams out on the face in the first 30 feet or so, also got in a bomber nut before I moved back into the crack. Through the crux I used: #4, #1, #.75 Camalots (in that order). Top is broken and loose and yes, the crux felt a little more like 5.9, but it's splitting hairs. I got a great slingshot belay off the tree and was able to sit on the edge and take in the view. Either take George's advice and go west, or resign yourself to walking all the way down to the Riviera, then on a trail back to the buttress and then scrambling back up to the ledge...not cool. Rack up at the bottom of the buttress or even the car and carry shoes. Nice climb, long waste-o-time descent.
|By Kreighton Bieger|
May 27, 2001
Sorry, two more thoughts: one comment about the gear at the first belay. Without small nuts and cams there would not have been a belay. I placed green and yellow Aliens behind a suspicious flake on the left, and equalized the #2 and #3 BD stoppers on the right. A wide setup but worked great with the double ropes. Second: BEWARE OF LOOSE ROCK!!!. The top of both pitches and the belay ledge are littered with loose rocks.
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 5, 2002
A really underappreciated route, a diamond in the rough. A variety of approaches. The easiest is a 4th class gully/corner system has poison ivy as you approach. You can do a number of trad things from left of the Riviera 5.7 or one of the L routes on the Riviera (Lease Agreement/New Lease on Life/Abandonment) and angle L 200' or even a manky long traverse in from above the Riviera. You can definitely find solid gear for 1st pitch if you look. You can definitely find good gear before the crux on the 2nd pitch. Trees are definitely the best anchors on top. This is reminiscent of climbing in the Park.
|By shad O'Neel|
Jul 17, 2002
Shad ONeel- I ended the first pitch at the bolts, placed no gear until the second pitch really began and that worked out swell. Thought it was a really fun route, especially the second pitch. Walked off west with no trouble, since I knew no better.
|By S. Kimball|
Aug 22, 2002
This looked good from the ground so I thought I'd convince my sportclimbing kid to belay me. Both by now bored with the dinky Riviera we tromped up there. The first few feet were nice but after dragging the rope through clumps of shrubs, poision ivy, and knocking rocks onto a party doing the bolted slab below, I reached a belay rigged on loose flakes more reminnescent of the Eiger. I didn't have a huge rack with me, it's 5.8 right! By the time I hit the crux, the only gear I could get in that odd groove was dangerously below. The rubble on the top could start a landfill, and, for the rest of the summer, I could not convince my kid into any more trad climbs....
|By Eric Chrisman|
Aug 30, 2002
I found this climb to be very enjoyable. The second pitch esp. has a nice alpine feel. I agree with most of the comments about the approach and descent....the descent W requires minor downclimbing/butt sliding. I haven't tried the standard (Rossiter) descent...seemed much longer. I agree with Leo concerning the approach. L of Riviera offers a multitude of possibilities.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 19, 2003
This climb is a good climb. The first half left me wondering why the route is called "something of a classic" but the second half answered that question. I believe if the entire route were like the second half, that it would be a much sought-after "destination climb." The crack in the second pitch does get a little seepy after a good rain and was wet in a spot or two this past Sunday morning. The route's second half had a few spots with moves that are 'hard for 5.8' and that did not protect that well. If you can keep your cool and not overgrip on barn-door moves, you'll be OK. As well, this route is GREAT done as a single 60m pitch from the ground to the top. If you use longer slings (2' and 1') you can avoid rope drag. Go for it.
|By Scott Conner|
From: Lyons, CO
Jun 2, 2003
Great gear route. I thought both pitches were fun. The rock is much better and more cleanly fractured on the first pitch but the climbing is more interesting on the second.
We belayed at the bolted anchor then ran it out to the good crack on the second pitch (about 50 ft.). It's a trade off; you can either have sight of your leader on the second pitch or you can have a bomber anchor. Not both.
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jun 4, 2003
Good route. Equal in quality to Bihedral Arete but fully trad. Enjoy.
|By Matt Seefeldt|
Jun 29, 2003
I was able to create a good anchor about six feet to the left of the large ledge on the top of pitch one. It's moderately hanging but took four strong cam placements in "crack pockets". At least you don't have to be sketched by the gear.
|By Bo Johnston|
Sep 12, 2003
After the first pitch I climbed the cool looking 5.9 crack (Heterohedral) on left wall. It was quite run-out on the face to it at 5.7+ or so, but a couple small cams made the crack above both safe and REALLY fun!
May 19, 2006
Ranks with Bitty Buttress for good BC 5.8 routes that I know of--safe if you take advantage of all gear placements (from small to 3.5 Camalot or so), but not exactly sewn up. Climbing may feel hard for the grade for those used to modern sport ratings. Do it with B. Arete and Rhodian Shores for good mix of trad, bolts, and mixed at similar grades.
|By Jay Eggleston|
May 17, 2008
Warning! There is a large horn about to break off midway up the first pitch. I would have removed it but was afraid of killing someone at the Riviera below. When it comes off it will impact at the base of the Bihedral Arete.