Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Bihedral (Upper Tier)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Fly in the Ointment T,S 
Acid Crack T 
Acid Rock T 
AHR S 
Bihedral T 
Bihedral Arete T,S 
Blood Diamond S 
Case of the Fags T 
Crack Variation T 
Dan's Line S 
Daydreaming T 
Diamonds and Rust S 
Dihedral Variation T,S 
Edge of Reality S 
Fat Tuesday T,S 
Flags of Our Fathers T,S 
Flesh Eating Flies S 
Group Therapy S 
Heterohedral T 
High Hard One S 
Hold The Line S 
It's Time For Change T,S 
Just Putin Around T 
Left-Handed Tool T,S 
Loose Blocks [in the Black Band] S 
Night Moves T,S 
Oh Boy T,S 
Pariah S 
Puff Daddy S 
Rhodian Shores S 
Rhodian, Naturally T,TR 
Sands of Iwo Jima S 
Sun Spot T,S 
Thumb Tack T 
Tool King T,S 
Trick or Treat T,S 
Where's Ray? S 

Bihedral Arete 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Vaino Kodas and Mary Zuvela
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 8,928
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on May 6, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (114)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Stevie admiring his work and the view.
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A spectacular route that climbs the beautiful arete just right of the Bihedral Route.

Pitch 1: Gain the arete and climb up past three bolts on good holds. Reach a thin crack (small gear) climb the crack angling to the left and climb up past four more bolts to a two-bolt anchor.

Pitch 2: Angle left up to small tree (with gear), clip a bolt and make cool moves on the exposed arete climbing the cool face/arete past several bolts to a two-bolt belay.

Rap the route with 2 ropes from pitch 2 or do two rappels with a single 60m rope. This route is going to be a classic.


Protection 

Bolts and small-to-medium gear. Two-bolt anchors at the first and second belays.



Photos of Bihedral Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Approach to routes on the upper tier of the Bihedral. <br /> <br />Follow the approach trail up the hill until it cuts right toward the rock at a flat area. Spot a cairn by a big pine tree close to the rock. Head right, past the tree and around a rock rib.  Climb the rock, mostly easy with a short 3rd-class section, up to the upper tier.
BETA PHOTO: Approach to routes on the upper tier of the Bihedr...
Looking down from the summit at Dan Hare & Mark Tarrant on Bihedral Arete 2nd pitch.
Looking down from the summit at Dan Hare & Mark Ta...
Brian Rolfson on P2 climbing past the vegetation.
Brian Rolfson on P2 climbing past the vegetation.
Chuck at the first hard moves. At various points you can make the route a little easier by moving right away from the arete. This is not one of those points.
Chuck at the first hard moves. At various points y...
Brian Rolfson on pitch 1.
Brian Rolfson on pitch 1.
Bihedral Arete.
BETA PHOTO: Bihedral Arete.
Start of P1
Start of P1
The large shadowed left facing corner is Bihedral Route 5.8 (good climb). Bihedral Arete is the sunny face just right of the corner.
The large shadowed left facing corner is Bihedral ...
Steve on P1
Steve on P1
Robbie working the arete
Robbie working the arete
looking up at P2 from P1 belay
looking up at P2 from P1 belay
Livin' life on the edge.
Livin' life on the edge.
Comments on Bihedral Arete Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 18, 2014
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 3, 2002

This is an aesthetic and fun route with great position. Bring a 60-meter rope; the rappel from the top of the first pitch is almost 100 feet long. I used a red and yellow Alien and a #2 Camalot for pro on both pitches; next time I'll leave all my other pro behind. Bring two or three runners that you can extend for some of the gear placements. There are seven bolts on the first pitch and four bolts on the second pitch. Both pitches had delicate face move cruxes that felt about 9+ or 10a. I thought the climbing was a bit easier than on Gish, a new 10a route on Bell Buttress/Aquarium Wall.

By Ray Snead
Aug 6, 2002

Superb. Luckily the approach is complex, which might keep the riffraff away. The route climbs nicely with Ron's suggested three cams (#2 Camalot, red and yellow Aliens), but bear in mind that finger sized wires will go in all over the place, and there are even some nice spikes to sling for you purists.

Go do this route! No, stay away!

By John Gill
Oct 23, 2002

What a good route***

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 19, 2003
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The route was pretty good. I don't know that it was an instant classic, but it was worthy for sure. It was mostly 5.6 to 5.7 climbing with short sections of harder climbing, all of which were well protected. Two moves were 5.9 or harder. Jenny thought it was easy for 5.9 (suggested 5.9-) and she's a 5.10 climber, so this should be in her range of good sensitivity.There is still a few gritty holds near the base that turned loose some crystals when I shifted my feet on them, but these will clean up with time.

I think it was best done by doing it as a single pitch (11 slings on bolts, +2 nuts with slings). It seems like you can rap off of it with a 50m by rapping to the first belay, then rapping to the top of the slabby face route left of the Bihedral (Rhodian Shores) then to the ground.

The first belay anchor is placed ideally on its own merit, but its presence was preceded by the route "Crack variation" of the bihedral, a route that is admittedly not very good and almost never climbed. Still, it makes me wonder if placing the belay slightly elsewhere would have been more preserving of the lines previously there. More something to think about than it is a complaint.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
May 22, 2003
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Good route. Note, you won't get from the P1 anchor to the ground with 50m rope. P1 is about 130 ft. P2 is short but slightly harder, 60 ft? A blue or green Alien might be useful between bolts 3 & 4 (tho' could be 2 & 3) on P2. New fangled hangers on many of the bolts.

Nice but agree with T. Bubb, not an instant classic.

Again, agree with T. Bubb, but my partner, Brian, thought it was 5.9.

By Scott Conner
From: Lyons, CO
Jun 3, 2003

Nice route. Surprising that this line didn't go up when the area was first being developed. With a little more traffic (read: cleaning) this will surely be a sought after climb. Great position and views.

By Scott Hudson
Jun 11, 2003

Climbed this on 6/8/03 and really enjoyed it. Pulled of a bit of loose rock at start, but overall it was clean and well protected with great position. Had the whole rock to ourselves. I've climbed in Boulder Canyon for almost 20 years, and I have to say that this is definitely one of the best lines of this grade in the canyon. Kudos to the 1st ascentionists.

By Ernie Port
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jun 15, 2003

Two ways to start this route, both pretty simple. Yard directly up from below the front face to a clip 20' up or so. Or start on the shallow inside corner, climbing up about 15' and steping over the arete to the clip. I did it from the front, my partner lead and started from the inside corner. First pitch felt (7+)ish to me with good exposure, maybe one (8) move half way up moving off the arete. Nice pitch of interesting climbing if you stay close to the arete. IMO climbing in the middle or right side looked much easier and degrades the quality. On P2 climb 20' of (6)ish to a roomy corner ledge, and the fun starts from here. Ascend off the arete onto the face using the inside of the arete, small crimpers, and a thin seam for three clips of excellent face climbing. IMHO this felt hard 9 to me. The crux on its neighbor, Rhodian Shores, felt harder. But I enjoyed it, and its three stars in my book.

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 21, 2003
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Good route and good boting ethics (not bolting where there is gear placements). Wish I had something bigger than a #3 TCU for the first pitch. A #3 Camalot would have been nice between the last bolt getting up to the P1 anchors. A few loose holds still on P1. Best option for rappelling is to rap from the top of P2 to the anchors on the bolted face to the left of the Bihedral; makes for a clean pull and plenty of rope to get down.

Great position and solid movement above your gear.

Slabby arete moves on P2 are tricky, but all there and well protected.

By Jake Wyatt
From: Longmont, CO
Aug 13, 2003

I also thought that Rhodian Shores was a bit tougher than Bihedral Arete. Very high quality though, and well worth the scramble up to the start.

By shad O'Neel
Jan 20, 2004

Unlike the above commments, I found this route to be a little tricky. I'd agree 9+ or 10-, slab climbing isn't my forte, and maybe I was having an off day. Nicely exposed, interesting, and I'm happy someone bolted a route leaving the places with gear for gear. Comapred to other boulder canyon 5.9 sport routes, this one seemed to be rated more like an old trad route, i.e not a gimmie for the grade, like, for example, 'pup' on neighbooring Security Risk......

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 29, 2004
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Did this route yesterday under light snowfall, fun route! We used a few wires, Aliens and the #2 Camalot. There are a couple of loose blocks that are not obvious, and probably wouldn't come off even if you yarded on them, but who knows? Amazing that this cool route was not discovered earlier.

By Warren Teissier
Mar 29, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Climbed this early yesterday amid intermitent periods of sun and snow showers.

What a great climb this is indeed.

Lose rock alert:

There is a large flake 1x3 feet to the right and up from the last bolt of the first pitch that is ready to come off.

As you reach the last bolt and you head up the easier broken section on the right, the first large handhold you reach is the top of the loose flake.

I pulled on it yesterday and it pulled out while making that grainy "rock-detaching-itself-from-the-wall-sound". I pushed it back in but it is way lose, only a matter of time...

When it comes off it is likely to fall right where your belayer is likely to be standing! Top Candidate for a trundle if you ask me.

Be Safe, WT

By Anonymous Coward
Mar 29, 2004

So, uh, maybe you should have removed the block. One of us has to do it, just make sure you yell out 'rock', and throw way out from wall. Don't know of a better time, unless you climb at 3am.

By Warren Teissier
Mar 29, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

AC, we considered trundling the block but, besides it not being fully detached (at least we did not test it), we could not see from our position if people were coming up a side trail below or down the hill for that matter.

Not a liability I was interested in shouldering.

I figured a heads up on this site would prevent an accident and if some one else wants to trundle it let them decide to do so.

WT

By ClimbandMine
Apr 21, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Did this route last week. While its good by BC standards, I'd hardly call it classic. And 10a is way overrated IMHO. The crux on the first pitch is a high step and crank from good holds on the corner. Crux moves on the second pitch are thin and a little balancy, but not that bad.

By Ken Heiser
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 8, 2004
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is a really fun route to lead in one pitch (about 170 ft.). I am really surprised this was not climbed earlier as it is such a classic line. A quality addition to this cliff.

By Joseph Proulx
Jun 16, 2004

I didn't think it was harder than 5.9, but I wasn't on lead. My partner didn't think it was harder than 5.9 either.

Just a note: You should place some gear in the crack above the third bolt, even if the climbing to the next bolt is easy. If you don't place any gear, a fall by the second from the crux (at the third bolt) will result in a swing over the arete. This probably wouldn't be dangerous, but it would suck. You might have to lower down to get back on route.

By Jake Wyatt
From: Longmont, CO
Jul 11, 2004

One of the loose blocks George is likely referring to is a two-foot spike/tooth of rock that's about two feet to the right of the last bolt on pitch 1; it flexes quite a lot.

By Craig Quincy
Oct 12, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The loose block at the end of pitch one is still there as of 10/10/2004 and is moving quite easily. Trundling it would be a little dubious without some coordination given all the activity at the Riviera and the road below.

By ac
Feb 28, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This route is pretty good, thanks for the work.

I would not rate this as a potential classic.

The climbing is not sustained at the grade. There are loose blocks and sections of lower grade rock. Pitch 2 is short and ends abruptly in a strange spot.

Slabberific, climb it once and maybe twice.

By Kaner
From: Eagle
Mar 13, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Climbed both pitches today, amazing climb. Awesome exposure, freaked me out everytime I was above pro and looked down. I found it harder than 10a.... It was the first time I've seriously relied on gear, so the head game could have had an effect. Or, I might just suck. ORRRR, you might just be too good. Quit climbing so much, cut your hair, get a job. Just kidding.

By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 19, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

5.10a Such a cool route. Classic positioning and nice length. Requires some nerve and finesse, plus as an added bonus you get to place some pro!

By Michael Walker
From: Loveland, CO
Nov 17, 2007

Good route. I don't know why I should feel thankful for not finding bolts next to cracks, but I was - made the route worthwhile. 2nd pitch was great, excellent face climbing and great pro. I'd climb again. 5.9+.

By Rob Kepley
From: Westminster,CO
Jan 9, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fun route with cool moves on first pitch.

By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 12, 2009

I self belayed this (again) yesterday and didn't bring any trad gear. That was a mistake. There are a couple of big runouts between bolts. In particular, after the first crux is a groundfall runout on medium difficult climbing.

By proto
From: Falmouth (MA)
Oct 6, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Led it today. I used a 0.4 on the first pitch and a 0.5 C4 on the second. Nice route very well protected. You don't need 12 QD as stated in the book, 7 QD and 2 runners are enough.

By prod.
From: Boulder, Co
Mar 26, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Fun route, but if this is 5.10a, then what is the Yellow Spur?

Prod.

By Eric Klammer
From: Boulder, CO
May 3, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Such a fun route! Mostly cruiser, 1 or 2 definitive cruxes....

By Eliot Augusto
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 18, 2014

GREAT route. My first lead on a 10. Loved every second of it. In an effort to practice more passive gear placement, the pink and brown tri-cams are great for pro around where you would put the Aliens.