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Biglandia

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Bitch Slap, The 
East Face-Big Betty Boulder 
Easy Reach-Big Betty Boulder 
Ponts de Lyon 
Redneck Traverse, The 
Reservoir Dogs 
Rotund, The 
South-East Arete-Big Betty Boulder 
V-neck 

Biglandia 


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Dec 14, 2001
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Wed Thu Fri Sat Sun
Partly Cloudy
54° | 32°
Clear
62° | 37°
Clear
75° | 47°
Chance of Rain
67° | 42°
Chance of Rain
71° | 43°
BETA PHOTO: Biglandia.
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Description 

Though spitting distance from the Dakota blocks at Carter Lake, Biglandia offers a different sort of rock and is more of a traverser's paradise. The rock is rough, dark brown and pocketed but faces east, making Biglandia a good tick on days when the wind is blasting the boulders at Carter or you need a bit of afternoon shade.

I have heard multiple reports of rattlesnake sightings during the warmer months, so tread with care.

The traverses here range from long (the Bitch Slap at 90+ feet) to short (the Rotund at 30 feet), yet there are some great up problems as well, some quite highball. Most of the development took place in the mid-90's, the work of Kurt Fry, Mike Freischlag, Skyler Crane, Mike Pont and Pete Zoller, though the area is mentioned as "Carter Meadows" in an old Bob Horan guidebook.

The Bitch Slap, the wall furthest south, is a great place to start, offering myriad variations and a nice flat hang. Almost all the landings at Biglandia are textbook flat meadow, so if Carter highballs have left you a bit drained, Biglandia is a nice change.

Problems range in difficulty from V0-V10, with the two hardest problems (the Mudweiser and Charley Horse) being the work of Charley Bentley. Holds can be sharp, so bring some tape. Expect to pull on micro-pockets, incut crimps and the occasional glassy sloper, as well as funky crack holds.


Getting There 

Biglandia is best accessed via Carter Lake. Pass Dam One (where you would park for the north side bouldering, i.e. Kahuna Roof) and keep driving north toward Dam Two. Just before Dam Two either park at a small pull-out on the right near a gate or drive a bit further and turn left into Carter Knolls.

Parking at Carter Knolls requires that you pay an entrace fee, as it's part of the Park. Rumor has it, however, that the pull-out on the right is county land and thus not subject to entrance fees. You be the judge.

Go through the gate and follow a dirt road southeast toward a faint hogback. Either wrap around the front (east) side of the hogback and make your way down the valley toward the crags or continue on a dirt road that runs along the back (west) side of the hogback until you hit a climber's trail running over a small pass in the Hogback.

The crags themselves are arrayed along this valley in a north-south arrangement and are on Carter Lake Property until you hit the fence at the Bitch Slap Wall. Don't bother climbing on the next wall south -- it's very much on private land.


9 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',3],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',4],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Biglandia:
The Redneck Traverse   V7 7A+     Boulder, 25'   
The Rotund   V7 7A+     Boulder, 25'   
Browse More Classics in Biglandia

Featured Route For Biglandia
Big Betty Boulder.

East Face-Big Betty Boulder V0 4  CO : Fort Collins : Biglandia
This problem is on the Big Betty Boulder, which is the lone large boulder that sits below the ridge line in the Biglandia area. On the less than vertical slabby east face, start from a pocket and a side pull and high-step your way straight up....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on Biglandia Add Comment
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By Adam Holmes
Mar 22, 2002

Biglandia is not bad. It's best as a place for after-work bouldering in the early summer due to the shade (easily doable it you live anywhere from Boulder to Fort Collins). Some problems should not be missed - Cream Filled Manboy and Chump are very good steep straight up problems. Phillip Benningfield's Colorado Bouldering guide covers this area quite well.

By Mark Morehouse
Apr 4, 2002

I checked out Biglandia last week. It is a nice area when its windy or hot as the routes face east and are steep. Most problems are steep and harder than what can be found along much of the ridge above the lake. Also, most problems that go up have loose top outs. You might be best off climbing down a few holds a heading for your pad. This would be bad advice for the highballs however. It didn't appear to see a lot of traffic based on trails. Have fun!

By Anonymous Coward
Apr 24, 2002

A common problem with this web site is poor location descriptions. As an example, I'm not familiar w/ CO enough to know where Carter Lake is. So the above description gives me no idea where this area is. Obviously I could do a Mapquest-type search, but having to do that makes this website look sloppy. Please, be more thourough in descritions.

By Adam Holmes
May 14, 2002

Yeah, the description here is not detailed enough. Check out Carter Lake on this website and the directions should be adequate.

By Brian Milhaupt
From: Golden, CO
Jan 1, 2003

The pullout on the right is subject to ticketing if you don't have a pass. I got one on 1/1/03, $20. I also had my car broken into, so hide your valuables.

By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Jul 13, 2005

It's been years since I visited this place, but I believe that the older approach has been closed due to residential development. I might be wrong. The least complicated approach is to park where the main road to Carter lake meet the lake itself. Sort of a bridge. From there, you walk east through the field, following what I seem to recall as being a barbed wire fence. This path eventually ends at the Biglandia boulders. I enjoyed this area. It has short, powerful problems and long traverses. The Rotund (V7) is one of my favorites.