Bighorn Buttress 

This route is definitely spicey. The bolts are in or near the cruxes but the condition of them are not the greatest. The rappel from the top is off two fixed pieces and numerous webbing. The next rappel is off two bolts one of which should be replaced. (All the bolts should be replaced). The last rappel is off one bolt and one piton. Still a very enjoyable line with a sweet short approach.

Sick Climb! Did it Saturday... Not sure where the 10+ comes from, the line is very clearly an 11a with the crux being a traverse up and right from the bolts. The 10D "variation" of climbing the arete straight up and then traversing is just that, a variation, it also seems pointlessly dangerous, the crimpers are protected by the bolt that is, in fact, good. Bad info to say that the credit card crimpers are friable. I'm 230 pounds and those puppies are SOLID! (leaders, protect the corner as high as you can for your second, otherwise it's a scary pendulum, consider back cleaning some gear) The whole route's rock is SO solid it's kind of shocking! Incredible route! Mentally challenging on every pitch with a hero finish! The rap stations up top weren't incredibly condidence inspiring. This purdy route could use new anchors.

Pretty awesome route- well worth the effort, and although I'm not sure I'd call it an .11a. the traverse up and right is the only obvious way to go, imho- the lower traverse looked insane. the traverse up and right also takes you directly to the third bolt, where the other way wouldnt.

otherwise, the route was pretty awesome. i felt that the grade was fairly sustained the entire time at the .10/.10+ range with some easier sections here and there. given the pro (or lack thereof), though, i'd say be solid at .11a (or better) before giving this one a go.

if you link the last two pitches, bring doubles of blue, yellow, and orange metolius for ease of mind.

oh, and leave the trail line at the bolts on the last pitch- you can get back to them easily with a single 60m and the rope pull is much easier.

Just did this climb on the 11/22/09. The traverse on P2 is hard. Definantly 11a IMHO. The 4th pitch is a real gem, an exciting finish to what was already an exciting climb. This route is not for the faint of heart.

@ Jon Obrien.....Those crimpers crunched and broke when I first pulled on them and later stepped on them. 4 years and a few more ascents later maybe they cleaned up abit.
The "Variation" honestly seemed like "the line" to me. Going right on those crimpers seemed a bit contrived. I don't remember it making anything "more dangerous" though.
Either way you do the climb it's pretty damn fun!

josh

This route does has some very cool, heady, climbing. First pitch is not for the faint of heart. The bold moves over the bulge on the First pitch is definitely heads up climbing. And I didn't like the Star drive bolt below, protecting the run out 5.10 climbing over the bulge,on the first pitch. Your in for a possible long drop on it and if it failed you'd be in for a very long drop.

Second pitch route finding is a bit weird. You can go high or low near the finish around the buttress.

Overall, I thought it was a memorable route with a stellar finish!

I concur with Bob on the serious nature of the first pitch. A great route with a stellar final pitch. Rope drag is an issue on the raps.....

As of 4/29/10, the LVCLC with the blessing and support of the ASCA, has replaced all but the crux bolt on this route. Bolts are 3/8x2.25 SS, with one 3/8x3 SS in the bolted anchor. To those who were worrying about that Star-Dryvin, let's just say it took some work to get it out. The remaining bolt will be replaced in the near future. Right now the first anchor does indeed consist of several jammed knots, backed up with a new-looking huge stopper. If one wanted to construct a modern belay anchor, offset nuts and purple metolius size gear would be appropriate. The tat on the top (3 nut) anchor is new. Rope drag is not really an issue on the raps, now.

Thanks Smassey!

I did the route with Greg Barnes...maybe the best old bolt analyiser(sp?) in the world...he saw it and said it was plenty good...it was a 3/8's star.

Better to have new gear though.

cheers,

josh

Thanks, Josh! Yeah, despite appearances, most of the bolts on this probably would've held a fall or two more. The one set of bolted anchors flexed alarmingly, and were eroding out of their placements, but were pretty solid... Those jammed knots, on the other hand, are bomber...