Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Broken Tooth
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Biggie Smiles T 
Blue Sky Mining T 
Broken Tooth T 
Brown Baby Teeth T 
Chemotherapy T 
Dental Floss Tycoon T 
Dentist Chair T 
Dynamic Dentistry T 
Gingivitis T 
Heat Searcher T 
Incisor, The T 
Inflictor T 
Midnight Oil T 
Mondo T 
Mushrooms With Hefner T 
Novacaine T 
Numbing the Wild T 
Polygrip T 
Rhythm Method T 
Rock Lobster T 
Root Canal T 
Snaggle Tooth T 
Terminal Fistula T 
Tooth Fairy T 
Tooth Pac T 
Unbelievable T 
Unnamed (Left side, Fingers in Tight Flare) T 
unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown T 

Biggie Smiles 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 125'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: David Marcinowski, Luke Mehall FFA: Jonathan Schaffer
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,076
Submitted By: Luke Mehall on Dec 18, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
David Marcinowski after the boulder problem start,...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A varied route, a boulder problem start, followed by and off-width section, then face climbing up to the final crux finger crack/layback. 2 ropes are needed, unless you have an 80 meter rope, which should work.

Location 

The next route over, to the right, from Tooth Fairy.

Protection 

Rack: Purple metolius (1) blue metolius (1) orange metolius (2-3) .3 camalot (2-3) .4 camalot (2-3) .5 camalot (4) #1 camalot (2) #2 camalot (1) #3 camalot (2) #4 camalot (1) #5 camalot (1) #6 camalot (2)

Two ropes are needed, though an 80 meter should work if you have one.


Photos of Biggie Smiles Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: David Marcinowski up high on Biggie Smiles, gettin...
David Marcinowski up high on Biggie Smiles, gettin...
Rock Climbing Photo: Biggie Smalls is the illest.
Biggie Smalls is the illest.

Comments on Biggie Smiles Add Comment
Show which comments
By Luke Mehall
From: Durango, Colorado
Mar 28, 2016

Just got on this again after five years.

Realized my gear beta was a bit off, you need some .3 cams for the top. So I fixed that. Route beta in the book is probably wrong, as it is the same as the original posting here from 2011.

Stoked some peeps are getting on it. Saw some chalk up there.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!