Type: Trad, Ice, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Jack Hunt, 1970s
Page Views: 1,109 total · 4/month
Shared By: Ben Bruestle on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This route does get a lot of sun hit and can be pretty wet at times.

Per Jesse Morehouse:this is the wide, tall sheet of ice that dominates the Chain Station when viewed on the approach. This route does get a lot of sun hit and can be pretty wet at times.

Protection Suggest change

This route probably takes about 5 screws. It is about 80' tall, so you make the call. Above it is a huge boulder with 2 rap bolts on it.

Per Jesse Morehouse: this route probably takes about 5 screws. It is about 80' tall, so you make the call. Above it is a huge boulder with 2 rap bolts on it. A lower top anchor was added in January 2022 with the permission of the first ascentionist due to the more and more common melted out condition of the very top of the ice. This unfortunate condition has led to a very runout and while somewhat moderate, still sketchy exit from the climb. Also, the lack of snow above the ice has led to more wear and tear on the thin turf covering the scramble to the boulder with the bolts. If the ice is good, this anchor will like be covered with ice and unnecessary. Toproping is best done from the boulder anchors. Topropers are encouraged to sling the thick shrubs at the lip with a directional to keep ropes from digging into the turf if possible. It will also prevent your ropes from getting coated in mud. 

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