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Stubai Pitons??

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By Jeremy Cleaveland
Jun 16, 2008

anybody used Stubai Pitons?
are they any good for aid and alpine?
By John McNamee
Administrator
From Littleton, CO
Jun 17, 2008
Pitch 7

Not sure if they are the same ones you are referring to, but I use to have some many years ago, like 30. Like a lot of european pin designs they were made out of soft metal and weren't that good. They would get deformed pretty easily.

If you need pins I would recommend to only buy Black Diamond. You should be able to pick lots of them up second hand. No need to buy them new.
By Brian in SLC
From Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 17, 2008
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

Jeremy Cleaveland wrote:
anybody used Stubai Pitons? are they any good for aid and alpine?


I've used a few of them. They have both soft iron and hard steel pins. Also, one of the few folks that still make a "bong".

I like their diagonal design, as you seem to get a bit of camming action out of certain placements.

They have kind of a pointy knifeblade design that looks like something James Bond would huck at a bad guy. Seems like they coat them with some clear hard almost plastic layer that might keep a fixed pin from corroding as fast.

For alpine limestone, I carry a few soft iron pins, and the Stubai ones work just fine.

They also make a couple with rings on them. Might be handy in some situations (could rap from one in a pinch).

For hard steel pins, the BD designs are very hard to beat.
By brenta
From Boulder, CO
Jun 18, 2008
Cima Margherita and Cima Tosa in the Dolomiti di Brenta. October 1977.

These are Stubai pitons from the early eighties:



I can't recall what they were like in action. In fact, it doesn't seem that I ever placed the short one, which has some rust on it, but no scratches. These are hard steel, possibly the James Bond style knifeblades Brian refers to. For dolomite and limestone the soft-steel pitons were way better, but I don't remember owning "soft" Stubai pins--mostly Cassin, CAMP, and some Grivel.
By Jeremy Cleaveland
Jun 19, 2008

this past Saturday I had the priviledge of using my el cheapo Acme Climbing nut tool as a piton (my burly homemade nut tool was too thick)



it held like a charm, and probably would have taken a short fall. It actually took a good bit of work to remove.

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