Hey guys,

There is no Better Way to aid solo, except that the better way is whatever works best for you, as long as it's safe. Being safe is key, and soloing aid climbs and big walls is NOT for Big Wall Theorists - you really have to know your stuff and your systems, or you will END UP DEAD.

There are a number of suggestions in the postings above that properly applied in a synergistic way will indeed hasten your cause to END UP DEAD. So if you prefer to NOT END UP DEAD, then pay attention to these caveats. There are a few tips included below.

1. Do not employ toothed cams in your solo belay systems, or you will END UP DEAD! Tiblocs are the sharpest little buggers ever made, and are intended to be used as an emergency ascender, though heaven knows why you would ever need one if you have a sling and know how to tie a Klemheist knot. Similarly Mini-Traxions and Pro-Traxions [the latter a complete piece of junk for hauling] are not designed to hold lead falls, and will most assuredly cut your rope. You can probably toprope OK with a Mini-Traxion as long as you have no slack in the system, but maybe a Gibbs ascender or Petzl Shunt would be better?

2. Build tons of redundancy into your system, because sooner or later you will need it. Stuff breaks, mistakes get made, carabiners cross load and break, solo devices fail, anything can happen. So make sure that when it does happen, you have something else in place to save you. Always tie a backup knot!

3. Ernie, don't use my system above unless you *really* know what you're doing, or you will end up dead. It is very scary having your entire rack hanging on a fifi in the middle of the pitch, but it works for me. This doesn't mean it will work for you, however. Also, I have completely rejected the double tagging system as it is too complex even for me! I was too nervous having a mini-load hanging on a fifi, but it works *in theory* as long as the pitch is fully overhanging. Not falling off will help you, too.

4. Don't modify your Grigri for aid soloing, as there is no need whatsoever. That's a free climbing modification, but if you're into that sort of thing, a Silent Partner is probably a better device. I don't know, I've never used one. It is big, klunky, and expensive, but I hear it works OK.

5. Jordan, you won't fall upside down if your piece blows. You and your aiders fall together. Try it sometime, I have.

6. There is no Rule 6.

7. No poofdahs.

8. Build your aid ladder out of exclamation points, not question marks. In other words, bounce test your pieces. The more scared you are, the harder you need to bounce [within reason] - as hard as you can on pins and nuts, more reasonably gently on heads, depending on their size. You can break a perfectly good head placement by bounce testing it too hard.

9. Rick - toproping is a great way to learn how to solo aid climb.

10. Ed - Soloists do not hold upside-down falls, and in my opinion are neither a safe nor viable solo belay device. Always tie a backup knot!!!

11. Good grief, the Barnett System? Or is it Bartlett, I can't remember? Doesn't that use prusik knots to supposedly stop your fall? That system emphatically DOES NOT WORK! It has been proved that the knots will melt!

"Nine Fingers" Rob - laughing my ass off! Ouch!

Anyway, if you guys have questions, post 'em up, or email me. Just be safe, eh? And don't blow it. It should be every aid climber's goal to one day solo El Cap.

Cheers,
Pete

Thanks for the info Pete.

Cheers,
jordan

Well, I managed to get out and do some climbing today . But I could not find a belayer, hard as I tried . They all said Are you crazy Its its 10 degrees out side. So I looked up* self belay lead climbing * on this site, After reading every thing you guys had to say about it I decided to start with the clove hitch method . Backed up by a figure eight every so often . iIt seemed like a good starting point. The route I was doing was not a hard one so today was just practice but it all worked .

It sure felt good to stand in Aiders again its been quite a while for me I have been doing mostly free climbing this year . But its just like riding a bike. you never really forget . The biggest problem I had was every time I adjusted my Clove hitch I keep thinking about nine fingers Rob . So I was real care full to keep my fat fingers out of harms way . I imagine if Solo Aid climbing becomes a regular thing I would switch to a Gri- Gri Or Trango Cinch . Also I plan I getting some Yates screemer's to incorporate in the system Does any one have any Beta on the Trango Cinch vs the Gri-Gri ?? I would love to hear about it .

I've always used a grigri. the cinch is designed in such a way that there's no friction in the device if it fails to lock up, and it's comprised of two plates scissoring. I haven't used it, but that's enough to keep me away from it for aid soloing. Backup knots are a good idea in any case.

"Thats a lot of fancy equipment you got there Mr. Hooper. Don't know what that damn sharks gonna do with it though... 'e might eat it I supposes.... seen one eat a rockin' chair one time."
Mr. Quinn

Use a Gri Gri.

Good on you, Danielle! [is she hardcore, or what?!]

Merry Christmas, everyone!

Just the other day i took my first self belayed lead fall (grigri) and was delighted to note that i didnt hit the ground...

the end...