By John Maguire From Boulder, CO Sep 26, 2009
| Outstanding. Sounds like a slog. Awesome write up. |  FLAG |
By David Aguasca From Plymouth, NH Sep 26, 2009
| Excellent work! How you made it up that wall hauling 160lbs is beyond me... |  FLAG |
By Mark Roth From Boulder Sep 26, 2009
| Awesome Report! My wife and I saw you guys from the meadow... |  FLAG |
By Gregger Man From Broomfield, CO Sep 27, 2009
| David Aguasca wrote: Excellent work! How you made it up that wall hauling 160lbs is beyond me... The pigs got a good bit lighter each day. We actually left 3 liters of water at Heart Ledges because we figured ~20 liters per dude was too much. Without the extra water Dave hiked up to the top, we would have ended up 3 liters short... |  FLAG |
By Steve Williams From Denver, CO Sep 27, 2009
| Great send, Greg & Wally! Did elcap-pics see you up there? |  FLAG |
By Paul Hunnicutt From Boulder, CO Sep 27, 2009
| was the hollow flake as bad as it seemed? you had a homemade cam for this pitch? how far did you have to run it out?
though it sounds like the roof pitch up high was more eventful. |  FLAG |
By Gregger Man From Broomfield, CO Sep 28, 2009
| Steve - We gave Tom a beer at the bridge. His photos are labeled in the slideshow. Paul - Wally led that pitch, and I think it was as hard or harder than expected. I'll let him chime in on the particulars, but the cam made it more than 3/4 of the way up. I made the #7 VallyCamaFriendAlot specifically for that pitch, but we ended up using it on 4 different pitches to good effect (Hollow Flake, the chimney after that, the Ear, and the exit chimney on P34.) I got the strongest torsion springs I could find so that it still worked well when tipped out near the 9" mark.
|  FLAG |
By Rick Blair From Denver, Co Sep 28, 2009
| Greg,
That thing is absolutely amazing, thanks for posting the picture!
Which factory in China did the fab work?? Just kidding.
Congratulations to you and Wally ( and Dave ) Awesome work!!! |  FLAG |
By Wally Sep 29, 2009
| Thanks for the kudos guys.
David - we used the Chongo 2 to 1 system to haul. The temps were warm - therefore the bags were heavy! - we drank about a gallon of water per person per day, not including all of the applesauce, fruit cocktail, etc. that was also consumed.
Paul - the Hollow Flake certainly has my respect. I thought it was pretty hard. The pro beta for that pitch is right on - bring a #5 for down low, and a #6 - and then you have to run it out for a long way on Yosemite 5.8 (or 5.9??) OW. Having Greg's homemade #7 camalot certainly took some of the commitment out of that pitch for me - I slid it along just about all of the way to the anchors. Lame - sure.!
:<). I am okay with that.
Great climb with very memorable pitches. Harder than the Nose - mostly because of the wide pitches. The Ear was nasty hard. Good stuff.
Climb Ohn. Wally |  FLAG |
By epoch From Maine Sep 30, 2009
| Gregger, that cam is beautiful! |  FLAG |
By Andrew Gram Administrator From Denver, CO Oct 6, 2009
| That is an absolutely wonderful TR. |  FLAG |
|