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Salathe trip report

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By Gregger Man
From Broomfield, CO
Sep 26, 2009
gg

Salathe trip report


[cross-posted at BigWalls.com - sorry, I'm a ham.]


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By John Maguire
From Boulder, CO
Sep 26, 2009
Bastille Crack Final Pitch

Outstanding. Sounds like a slog. Awesome write up.


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By David Aguasca
From Plymouth, NH
Sep 26, 2009
The offwidth on Inhibitor (5.11a), RRG.

Excellent work! How you made it up that wall hauling 160lbs is beyond me...


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By Mark Roth
From Boulder
Sep 26, 2009
not climbing

Awesome Report!
My wife and I saw you guys from the meadow...


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By Gregger Man
From Broomfield, CO
Sep 27, 2009
gg

David Aguasca wrote:
Excellent work! How you made it up that wall hauling 160lbs is beyond me...

The pigs got a good bit lighter each day.
We actually left 3 liters of water at Heart Ledges because we figured ~20 liters per dude was too much. Without the extra water Dave hiked up to the top, we would have ended up 3 liters short...


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By Steve Williams
From Denver, CO
Sep 27, 2009

Great send, Greg & Wally!
Did elcap-pics see you up there?


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By Paul Hunnicutt
From Boulder, CO
Sep 27, 2009
Half Dome

was the hollow flake as bad as it seemed? you had a homemade cam for this pitch? how far did you have to run it out?

though it sounds like the roof pitch up high was more eventful.


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By Gregger Man
From Broomfield, CO
Sep 28, 2009
gg

Steve - We gave Tom a beer at the bridge. His photos are labeled in the slideshow.
Paul - Wally led that pitch, and I think it was as hard or harder than expected. I'll let him chime in on the particulars, but the cam made it more than 3/4 of the way up.
I made the #7 VallyCamaFriendAlot specifically for that pitch, but we ended up using it on 4 different pitches to good effect (Hollow Flake, the chimney after that, the Ear, and the exit chimney on P34.) I got the strongest torsion springs I could find so that it still worked well when tipped out near the 9" mark.


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By Rick Blair
From Denver, Co
Sep 28, 2009

Greg,

That thing is absolutely amazing, thanks for posting the picture!

Which factory in China did the fab work?? Just kidding.

Congratulations to you and Wally ( and Dave ) Awesome work!!!


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By Wally
Sep 29, 2009

Thanks for the kudos guys.

David - we used the Chongo 2 to 1 system to haul. The temps were warm - therefore the bags were heavy! - we drank about a gallon of water per person per day, not including all of the applesauce, fruit cocktail, etc. that was also consumed.

Paul - the Hollow Flake certainly has my respect. I thought it was pretty hard. The pro beta for that pitch is right on - bring a #5 for down low, and a #6 - and then you have to run it out for a long way on Yosemite 5.8 (or 5.9??) OW. Having Greg's homemade #7 camalot certainly took some of the commitment out of that pitch for me - I slid it along just about all of the way to the anchors. Lame - sure.!

:<). I am okay with that.

Great climb with very memorable pitches. Harder than the Nose - mostly because of the wide pitches. The Ear was nasty hard. Good stuff.

Climb Ohn. Wally


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By Mike Pharris
From Longmont, CO
Sep 29, 2009
Belay on Cadillac Crag 6/6/09

real nice TR !!


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By epoch
From Maine
Sep 30, 2009

Gregger, that cam is beautiful!


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By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From Denver, CO
Oct 6, 2009
Andrew Gram

That is an absolutely wonderful TR.


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