By Lee Jensen
Oct 5, 2009
| Friday September 25th 2009
Driving down the highway of 15 the trooper pulled me over doing 87 in a 75. I didn’t think he would understand that we needed to get three pitches fixed before the sun went down. I looked in the backseat at the pile of nuts, cams, and ropes and thought, “Great we look like a couple of dirt bag climbers, no chance of getting off on this one.” That makes my first speeding ticket ever. Now it is time for my first wall.
| Crossing the river. Muddy, but not too cold in September.
Submitted By: Lee Jensen on Oct 5, 2009
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No other climbers are to be seen anywhere. Prodigal Sun lies empty. The bus dropped us off at Big Bend and we had the first three pitches fixed and back off the wall in three hours. Slaying the crux third pitch in dignified style Tristan begins his career as a big wall master. Burritos and star gazing on BLM land.
| First pitch. Just over the roof.
Submitted By: Lee Jensen on Oct 5, 2009
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Saturday September 26th 2009
We caught the first bus into the park the next morning. The temperature would hit the high nineties that day, but since the wall was in the shade for all but a couple hours it felt perfect, even a bit cold as I belayed the first pitch of the day. Looking at the ledge at the top of pitch three I couldn’t imagine anyone sleeping comfortably on it.
| Lee jugging.
Submitted By: Lee Jensen on Oct 5, 2009
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| Bivy ledge. Sleep tight!
Submitted By: Lee Jensen on Oct 5, 2009
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Tristan led quickly and efficiently. Occasionally I would hear, “Offset cams, oh yeah!” echoing from above. Hooking here and there, plugging away at the pin ladders, getting high in his aiders. The pitches blurred together into a dream.
| On the wall.
Submitted By: Lee Jensen on Oct 5, 2009
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It is about here where Tristan drops a nut from 70 feet above me. Amazingly it bounces on a four inch ledge as I stop it with my foot.
At the top of pitch five a peregrine falcon swooped past me and alighted on a perch a hundred feet to my left. We both sat looking out over the canyon. He was lord of all that he surveyed. I was only a passing visitor, but what an honor to be a guest in his home.
| Falcon watches us climb.
Submitted By: Lee Jensen on Oct 5, 2009
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| Tristan leading the eigth pitch.
Submitted By: Lee Jensen on Oct 5, 2009
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On the final two aid pitches my brother Marc dropped in for a visit. Using his three hundred foot static line, he rapped down the blank face. It was surreal. All alone on this wall, only to have him drop in and hang there. I almost expected him to pass out drinks and peanuts.
| Marc drops in for a visit.
Submitted By: Lee Jensen on Oct 5, 2009
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Cleaning the final pitch I booty a stuck offset nut. Since I had to jam the crack with one hand and somehow still use both hands on the nut tool I figured I earned my wages.
| Wrapping up the eigth pitch.
Submitted By: Lee Jensen on Oct 5, 2009
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Lower out on the traverse, pull over the lip at the top, crawl up a chimney, step through a landmine, and exchange quizzical looks with the hikers passing by on the trail.
| Watch where you step!
Submitted By: Lee Jensen on Oct 5, 2009
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Thanks Piton Ron. That was a memory that will last a lifetime. | 
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By Phil Lauffen
From Boulder
Oct 5, 2009
| cool! nice pictures. Looks like a lot of fun! |
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By Mark Cushman
From Erie, CO
Oct 5, 2009
| BIG WALL STOKE!! Thanks for posting! |
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By Robert 560
From The Land of the Lost
Oct 6, 2009
| Nicely done (the send), Great trip report!! |
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By atrau
Oct 6, 2009
| umm....the off set nut Yellow #7 DMM?
Your welcome if that is it.
Nice Climb guys,
Rob Schwarzmann
From Springdale |
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By Lee Jensen
Oct 6, 2009
| atrau wrote: umm....the off set nut Yellow #7 DMM?
It was actually the red DMM offset. I understand why the previous party left it. The nut was stuck where the route traverses and so I was hanging off the piece above it which was about five feet to the left and six feet up. To free the nut you had to swing back over, hand jam the crack while working the nut tool with both hands. It was such a pain that if I had known it wasn't my partner's I would have left it.
If you think it is yours then you are welcome to it! |
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By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From PG, Utah
Oct 6, 2009
| I wanted to tag along so bad! But it's all good. I understand that for a wall you gotta have the parties system dialed. But I want in for the next big project! |
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By Lee Jensen
Oct 8, 2009
| Sounds good Crisco. We will have to plan another trip soon! |
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By Aaron S
From Vegas
Nov 15, 2009
| Very cool TR and pics! |
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By Legs Magillicutty
From Littleton
Nov 17, 2009
| I really want to do that route!
The photos are great.
I that we're seeing more TRs on this site lately. |
FLAG |
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