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Heaven help you all - Dr. Piton has arrived!

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By "Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok
From Oakville, Ontario
Dec 9, 2007
Left to right - me, Sam Adams, Thomas Huber, Alex Huber

Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha!!! {DDEL}

Like how's it goin', eh?

John McNamee approached me about putting some of my stuff into your forum here, so I told him that if he was willing to give me a hand with the copying and pasting and such [thus sparing me the bother] then that would be cool. I'm also happy to see you guys have lots of space to post up photos.

So the two of us have been madly writing and moving stuff, and I guess this is where I'm going to hang out for a while.

I wanted a place that was like RC.com where there was a specialized forum for big wall and aid climbing questions, but without all the choss you find over at McTopo. So let's give this a try, eh?

It was never my intention that the glossary you formerly saw here should appear as its own post, it's really just a novelty thing that I did once, and I thought might be fun to link to from time to time.

So we'll keep posting up some stuff here, and if you have any questions, please be sure to Ask Dr. Piton. That's not to say you should necessarily do as I say [or even worse, as I do!] for Dr. Piton does not purport to the the Best Way or the Only Way, merely the Better Way - and of course, the Better Way is whatever works best for you.

Cheers and beers,
The Diabolical Dr. Piton aka Pete

By opaque ascentionist
From POS, Colorado
Dec 9, 2007

What a lame post, go climbing instead of posting none-sense! Hope the site admin deletes this one. Where the f did you come up with this fecal matter? Never mind, you might post a similar topic. What a waste of time,energy, and space; poor soul!

By Will A.
From Gunnison, CO
Dec 10, 2007
unnamed crack @ IC

lighten up :) I though it was hilarious

By Sirius
From Oakland, CA
Dec 10, 2007
Moving through the crux lock - now that's micro beta for you, that is.

opaque, if I had to take a wild guess, I'd say that was your first post ever, and that your acct was created not too long ago. I'd further venture that you may have some beef against the OP that dates back in time.

Either way, creating an anonymous account just to deposit your whining negativity onto this site makes you a drag.

Have you ever solo'd a wall, or done much aid climbing? If so, can you understand how PtPP's knowledge is a valuable resource? What of value do you have to offer here?

By Jay Knower
Administrator
Dec 10, 2007
Wild Thing, Independence Pass, CO.

Opaque has been around for a while now.

By Steve Williams
From Denver, CO
Dec 10, 2007

So tell--is the book available or not? Inquiring minds want to know!!!!!

By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From Denver, CO
Dec 10, 2007
Andrew Gram

This post is incredibly stupid, but it is easy enough to ignore and Pete has every right to post here.

By Avery Nelson
From Boulder, CO
Dec 10, 2007
Avery, 300' up Japanese Coulior

Perhaps a little explanation is in order - for everyone's benefit.

PTPP is an aid specialist and has probably solo'd more big walls than Opaque can count. In addition, Pete has been a regular contributing writer to Rock and Ice on the topic.

Aid climbing tactics aren't well documented, and PTPP has been sharing his knowledge of the topic in detail through forums for years now. The above post explains the somewhat entertaining jargon of PTPP. With his permission, MP is adding some of his posts to this site, which will be a nice contribution to the site.

I suspect this post was one of the transfers to help folks understand his jargon and interesting sense of humor.

Opaque -- I'm assuming you don't know who PTPP is or just feel like being a jerk. If you want to be a decent fellow or gal -- then rescind your offensive comment or just delete it.

By "Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok
From Oakville, Ontario
Dec 10, 2007
Left to right - me, Sam Adams, Thomas Huber, Alex Huber

Hey guys,

This thing was a joke. I had put it together way back when, and it was something silly that I would occasionally link to. I had it as an HTML page together with a bunch of stuff that I sent to John so he could start posting it up here. I didn't intend my glossary to be a stand-alone post, because it doesn't really offer anything, does it?

So lighten up, I asked John to move it somewhere, where I can occasionally link to it. But I don't think it belongs here. He's been working hard to transfer some of my useful technical and teaching posts over here, so please have a look at those as you can actually learn stuff.

Which of course is the idea.

Cheers,
Pete

By mike mullendore
From columbia, md
Dec 10, 2007
Whitney from the Alabama Hills

pete, where is your stuff (website) at? I would like to take a look. thanks. mike

By "Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok
From Oakville, Ontario
Dec 10, 2007
Left to right - me, Sam Adams, Thomas Huber, Alex Huber

I don't have a website. A year or two ago I had a friend try helping me, but the amount of effort was too monumental really. Better to post it somewhere where people already come. So John is helping me move some posts over here, which are starting to show up as you can see below.

Now, if he'd just move my Glossary someplace else! Just an html page sitting somewhere I can link to every now and then for a joke.

I guess the Wank Factor is running a bit high this morning, this being too long before Changeover Time, even in the Eastern Time Zone!

By John McNamee
Administrator
From Littleton, CO
Dec 10, 2007
Pitch 7

Pete,

I'll figure something out about the glossary...

I'm almost finished your tr on tribal rite and will post this up during my lunchtime break at work.

Cheers

John

By Steve Williams
From Denver, CO
Dec 10, 2007

Pete
Your info was hilarious! Too bad you don't have a
big wall book.
Keep posting!

By "Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok
From Oakville, Ontario
Dec 10, 2007
Left to right - me, Sam Adams, Thomas Huber, Alex Huber

Thanks, John. I found some good pix of various hotties cleaning El Cap routes, so I will photoshop and upload them, and then you've got them for the cleaning aid post. That's an original which will first be published here, incidentally.

We're also gonna move over a very definitive post on Russian Aiders. Lots of climbing photos, and of the aiders themselves.

I also want to get my Big Wall Checklist up and running again.

If I can get these things edited properly and posted up here, then those can all be pages from a book-to-be I suppose.

By Jason Himick
From Boulder, CO
Dec 10, 2007

FWIW...

I found the post amusing and it has me curious about big walls... especially big wall hotties that clean.

If you don't like the post, ignore it and STFU. Negative comments are useless.

By "Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok
From Oakville, Ontario
Dec 10, 2007
Left to right - me, Sam Adams, Thomas Huber, Alex Huber

They might be able to clean, but I still make the best Big Wall Coffee.

By mschlocker
From San Diego, CA
Dec 10, 2007
FA of the tree in front of my place.  C1 with my new adjustable dasies.

Welcome to Mountain Project PTPP. I look forward to having your posts up on this site. Now you have finally discovered "The Better Way" to post.

By Caz
From Long Beach, Ca
Dec 14, 2007

Pete great to see you here. I hope that having you here will bring other big wall climbers to find out what the better way of doing things is. I am another one of those people that printed out all your old posts from rockclimbing.noob, even though I think you can be a douche bag sometimes. I'm glad to see you have a place to post and I fought to bring you back to rc.com.

Oh and by the way, I was just given a copy of Complete Book of Big Wall Climbing.

By "Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok
From Oakville, Ontario
Dec 14, 2007
Left to right - me, Sam Adams, Thomas Huber, Alex Huber

A douche bag?? SUCH A THING TO SAY! Never for a moment would I imply, suggest or otherwise {HINT} that you are absolutely correct.

The most douche-baggish stuff I wrote over at RC.com was during something of a bad time for me, and I kinda took it out the wrong way. The internet was a new novelty, I didn't "get" a lot of the etiquette, what was cool to say and what wasn't. I definitely wrote and did some inappropriate [i.e. stupid] stuff. But I never meant to be malicious, just a smart-ass. In my weakness I revelled in the attention, which in retrospect seems kinda lame. I probably could have deleted a lot of the junk I wrote, but for whatever reason I chose to leave it as a monument to my own stupidity. I no longer have access to the stuff over there, so unfortunately I can't change it.

What I want to do is focus on climbing, and rewrite a bunch of my old technical posts, and get the stuff posted here. If you have questions, please ask, and I'll do my best to answer.

The stuff I wrote for Rock & Ice Magazine was heavily edited - the staff asked me to write with "attitude" - they seemed to like that. What ended up happening was they started "jazzing up" my posts when I didn't give them enough of what they wanted, and my last column there contained so few of my own words I hardly recognized it. Anyway, I'll try to avoid that kinda stuff over here.

I wanna get my Ultimate Big Wall Checklist up and running again, because it's something I can link everything to and from, so that's a project I need to get working on. And if the powers-that-be over here want to set up something like the El Cap Section over at RC.com [which used to be their Most Visited Page until it fell into ruin] I would be happy to set up a definitive beta page.

Cheers,
Pete aka Dr. Piton

By Mark Nelson
From Coniferous, CO
Dec 14, 2007
 In a zoo in California, a mother tiger gave birth to a rare set of triplet tiger cubs.    Unfortunately, due to complications in the pregnancy, the cubs were born prematurely and due to their tiny size, they died shortly after birth. <br /><br />The mother tiger after recovering from the delivery, suddenly started to decline in health, although physically she was fine. The veterinarians felt that the loss of her litter had caused the tigress to fall into a depression. The doctors decided that if the tigress could surrogate another mother's cubs, perhaps she would improve. <br /><br />After checking with many other zoos across the country, the depressing news was that there were no tiger cubs of the right age to introduce to the mourning  mother. The veterinarians decided to try something that had never been  tried in a zoo environment. Sometimes a mother of one species will take on the care of a different species. The only "orphans" that could be found quickly, were a litter of weaner pigs.  The zoo keepers and vets wrapped the piglets in tiger skin and placed the babies around the mother tiger.<br />

"Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok wrote:
... And if the powers-that-be over here want to set up something ... I would be happy to set up a definitive beta page. Cheers, Pete aka Dr. Piton


I'm all for this as well the gear review topics. They should all be master indexed with a link in the main header of mp.com.


And, thanks Pete (& Johnny Mac, of course); you're all douche-bags to the highest regard in my book.

By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From Denver, CO
Dec 14, 2007
Andrew Gram

The El Cap page is here: El Capitan

Feel free to post any routes you have info for that are missing, and add comments or photos to routes that already exist.

By Caz
From Long Beach, Ca
Dec 14, 2007

Pete I have nothing but the highest respect for you as a climber, but when I call you a douche bag it has to do with a personal encounter we had in the past. That said, it was around the same time as your RC.com days, and I do see that you have changed and I am not one to keep stuff like that, I forgive and forget easily. You can see here (I'm PBCowboy77 over there) http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post>>>>>
that I wanted you to come to this site and share your experience.


So don't take me to serious when I call you a douche, I know the douche I'm thinking of is the douche of the past.



Glad to see you here,

Caz

a.k.a. PBCowboy77

a.k.a. Zac

By Charlie Perry
From Fort Collins
Dec 14, 2007

I don't know who you are Pete. But if your the dr, Piton who posted the article on nailing heads than thanks much. I have never done anything like Recient wall and probably will not. Never needed those skills on the Nose, Salathe nor any other wall in Yosemite and beyond so far. However I never say never and could find myself on some wacked out route with a hammer in my hand, in which your article will be studied and followed.

Thanks for the input.

By "Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok
From Oakville, Ontario
May 16, 2008
Left to right - me, Sam Adams, Thomas Huber, Alex Huber

Thanks Charlie, that would be me, eh?

So come on, it's wall climbing season. Someone ask some good questions! I need to get my brain in gear here as I'm heading to Yosemite shortly.

Note: Just because a post is addressed to my crusty internet persona Dr. Piton does not mean only he should answer it, because there are lots of other people with lots of other great ideas that we can all learn from. This approach is consistent with Guideline #1.

By sactownclimber
From Sacramento, CA
May 16, 2008
Me on the summit of Mt. Whitney. That's Mt. Russel in the background.

Pete -

I am planning on doing my first big wall this summer. On my short list is WFLT, the Prow, and maybe Salathe? So . . . here's my question: If you had to make a list of top five mistakes not to make during your first big wall (season), what would they be? Maybe you have more than five, but that seemed like a reasonable number.

-j-

By Tim Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
May 16, 2008
Looking down from Notchtop

I don't know Pete, it could use more cowbell.


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