By SFClimber Jan 17, 2008
| I'm looking to spend a week or two in February/March in Yosemite Valley practicing Big Wall Theorist solo aid technique (aiding, hauling, portaledging, drinking...) as prep for a Nose attempt later this year. Can anyone recommend winter-friendly C1-C2 aid routes? I don't want too long an approach or to get too high on anything in case bad weather pops up. I'd prefer El Cap routes but I've heard there is real danger of ice fall. Any ideas? Thanks. |  |
By Moof From Portland, OR Jan 17, 2008
| WFLT can be done in the winter, and there should be minimal competition. The approach sucks, and post holing is likely. On the plus side the falls are clean due to the overhanging nature. I did pitch 3 while it was snowing, and there wasn't a flake within 30' of me. Pretty cool!
Tangerine trips first couple pitches are protected and not too oozy, but the climbing is pretty unredeeming. Pitch 3 and 4 will be oozy and drippy, but will be protected from ice fall.
That's all I know... |  |
By Adrian Hill Jan 17, 2008
| We did Skull Queen (next to the Prow on Washington Column) one March, following a big snow dump. Route was dry, and because it follows an arete, completely free of falling snow/ice. Walk off to the top of North Dome gully was hard postholing - best to check out the descent in advance if you don't know it. Sunny route, and we had the whole of WC to ourselves. (I think the Prow would be wetter - it follows more cracks low down.)
Have fun. |  |
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