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By Ernie Rolls
From Custer, SD
Apr 1, 2008
Devils Tower Summit

Anyone have route suggestions for C1/C2 aid practice on Devils Tower? Preferably something that won't get in the way of the free climbers weekend. Thanx -E

By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From Denver, CO
Apr 1, 2008
Andrew Gram

The routes that get aid ratings in the guidebook are fairly tricky - I took a big fall trying to do a clean ascent of the aid route next to El Matador. Just about every free route on the tower is a good clean aid line though. Pick any 5.11 or 5.12 fingercrack and you likely won't be in anybody's way.

By Doug Hemken
From Madison, WI
Apr 1, 2008
At the crux of McCarthy West Face var.<br /><br />Photo by Jon Jugenheimer

What Andrew said: look at the free lines. As long as you're climbing clean, what style you climb in is your business.

If you can find a copy of Harlin's "Guide to North America", he gives some clean aid ratings to DT routes in there, stuff like McCarthy NF 5.8 C1. The old Bonney guide might give you some ideas, too, although the aid ratings there are for iron, e.g. Hollywood & Vines 5.5 A1. But if you take the modern free ratings and pay attention to the G-PG-R ratings, and then look at the older guides, it might give you a few ideas of things to explore.

Be sure to report back here when you find something fun. There are loads of folks interested in beginner aid routes that are clean.


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