By Dane Casterson From Boulder May 1, 2007
| Ive been free climbing for the last couple years and am looking to get into aid. What is a basic aid rack to climb up to a2/c2? Currently i have a double set of rocks, double aliens from black to red, and double camelots from .5" to 3". What else is essential for a basic rack other than spare biners, etriers, and draws? |  |
By John McNamee Administrator From Littleton, CO May 1, 2007
| I would just select a route, look at the gear requirements and buy based on that. Otherwise you are going to spend a lot of money and have it sit around. |  |
By cameron May 1, 2007
| Hey Dane - It is true that it totaly depends on your climb. But, if you haven't done any aiding, then may I suggest: jummars/ascender daisy chain more smaller gear (nuts, cams to 0) small pulley (hauling) backup prusik cord sky hook harness with haul loop good approach shoes
Then start on some vert cracks for practice (C1 stuff), and move on to Castle Rock aid roof, and do the easy crack out and up (C1). That way you get the hang (pun) of working with all that stuff in different positions. |  |
By Adrian Hill May 2, 2007
| I'd add a fifi hook to cameron's list. Probably the cheapest piece of gear there is for aid!
It's useful to have a small selection of hooks. Start with the BD Talon, which is essentially three hooks in one.
Cam hooks are cheap, and speed things up, but get the basics down before messing with them.
Oval biners are great for aid - get a handful, if your main rack is mostly offsets and wire gates.
Have fun aiding, Adrian |  |
By Kartch From Belgrade, MT May 2, 2007
| I'd invest in adjustable daisies. They are way better than than messing with a fifi imo. The Yates are bomber. |  |
By vegastradguy From Henderson, NV May 2, 2007
| Offset gear- HB offsets (soon to be DMM Offset nuts) and Hybrid Aliens. this stuff makes many aid climbs much easier than they would be otherwise. |  |
By Mike Morley Administrator From Oakland, CA May 2, 2007
| A small assortment of pins and a hammer are nice to have in case a fixed pin blows or no clean placements are possible. You should be alright without if you're sticking to the easier trade routes. |  |
By Brad Brandewie May 2, 2007
| There will be some who disagree, but I think you can forgo the adjustable daisies if you are only climbing up to A2/C2.
I don't use daisies at all when I'm leading until it gets harder than C2. I find that they create more headaches than they are worth. The biggest drawback to this method IMO is that you could drop your aiders. That being said, I've taken falls while aiding and I haven't dropped one yet. I also climb with two pairs so if I do drop a pair, I have a backup.
YMMV
Other things that I find useful
Tri-cams - especially for the desert HB Offsets - these things are awesome Butterfly rivet hangers or something similar for bolt studs Some small webbing for tie-offs Screamers Belay seat that you can stuff in a pack or helmut Oval biners Double gear sling Approach shoes that climb well A ropegun |  |
By Dane Casterson From Boulder May 3, 2007
| Thanks for the responses. Is it at all odd that i am excited to continue my starvation rations of cup o noodles and coffee to pay for this addiction called climbing? Think what i need it to get out and follow a bit. Anyone need a partner? |  |
By Mark Nelson From Coniferous, CO Dec 16, 2007
| How bout tools of the trade that are used but not "climbing gear" per say?
What are some "other things" that help an aid line go?
Like duct tape - anyone use something like this as a must have for their endeavour & why? |  |
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