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Basic Aid Rack

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By Dane Casterson
From Boulder
May 1, 2007
More fun inside the Crackhouse.  Attempting to turn the corner.  Doesnt get much better!

Ive been free climbing for the last couple years and am looking to get into aid. What is a basic aid rack to climb up to a2/c2? Currently i have a double set of rocks, double aliens from black to red, and double camelots from .5" to 3". What else is essential for a basic rack other than spare biners, etriers, and draws?

By John McNamee
Administrator
From Littleton, CO
May 1, 2007
Pitch 7

I would just select a route, look at the gear requirements and buy based on that. Otherwise you are going to spend a lot of money and have it sit around.

By cameron
May 1, 2007

Hey Dane - It is true that it totaly depends on your climb. But, if you haven't done any aiding, then may I suggest:
jummars/ascender
daisy chain
more smaller gear (nuts, cams to 0)
small pulley (hauling)
backup prusik cord
sky hook
harness with haul loop
good approach shoes

Then start on some vert cracks for practice (C1 stuff), and move on to Castle Rock aid roof, and do the easy crack out and up (C1). That way you get the hang (pun) of working with all that stuff in different positions.

By Adrian Hill
May 2, 2007

I'd add a fifi hook to cameron's list. Probably the cheapest piece of gear there is for aid!

It's useful to have a small selection of hooks. Start with the BD Talon, which is essentially three hooks in one.

Cam hooks are cheap, and speed things up, but get the basics down before messing with them.

Oval biners are great for aid - get a handful, if your main rack is mostly offsets and wire gates.

Have fun aiding,
Adrian

By Kartch
From Belgrade, MT
May 2, 2007

I'd invest in adjustable daisies. They are way better than than messing with a fifi imo. The Yates are bomber.

By Steven Lucarelli
From Arvada, CO
May 2, 2007
Showing off Johns almighty poop tube on the top of El Cap, after climbing the Nose.

I definitely agree with the adjustable daisies, they are a lot easier and faster. I would also get a set or two of HB offset nuts, they are the sh*t for aid and I have used them on C1 to C4. A good chest harness makes carrying a lot of gear so much easier I personally like the "multi-loop" shown in this link: http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/bigwallgearsl.htm
Also get ladder style steps, they are easier to get your feet in and don't get as twisted and tangled as the triangle step aiders, see link: http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/aidersladder.htm
One more thing is get a "wall hauler", it makes setting up and hauling a pig a lot faster. http://storrick.cnchost.com/VerticalDevicesPage/Misc/Hauling>>>>>
Good luck!

By vegastradguy
From Henderson, NV
May 2, 2007
Vegastradguy follows the crux pitch of Western Swing on Windy Peak.

Offset gear- HB offsets (soon to be DMM Offset nuts) and Hybrid Aliens. this stuff makes many aid climbs much easier than they would be otherwise.

By Mike Morley
Administrator
From Oakland, CA
May 2, 2007
At Potrero Chico, New Years 2007/08

A small assortment of pins and a hammer are nice to have in case a fixed pin blows or no clean placements are possible. You should be alright without if you're sticking to the easier trade routes.

By Brad Brandewie
May 2, 2007
On the way to the top of Owen's first peak.<br /><br />(Engineer Mountain near Durango)

There will be some who disagree, but I think you can forgo the adjustable daisies if you are only climbing up to A2/C2.

I don't use daisies at all when I'm leading until it gets harder than C2. I find that they create more headaches than they are worth. The biggest drawback to this method IMO is that you could drop your aiders. That being said, I've taken falls while aiding and I haven't dropped one yet. I also climb with two pairs so if I do drop a pair, I have a backup.

YMMV


Other things that I find useful

Tri-cams - especially for the desert
HB Offsets - these things are awesome
Butterfly rivet hangers or something similar for bolt studs
Some small webbing for tie-offs
Screamers
Belay seat that you can stuff in a pack or helmut
Oval biners
Double gear sling
Approach shoes that climb well
A ropegun

By Dane Casterson
From Boulder
May 3, 2007
More fun inside the Crackhouse.  Attempting to turn the corner.  Doesnt get much better!

Thanks for the responses. Is it at all odd that i am excited to continue my starvation rations of cup o noodles and coffee to pay for this addiction called climbing? Think what i need it to get out and follow a bit. Anyone need a partner?

By Caz
From Long Beach, Ca
Nov 30, 2007

Before you start getting your rack bigger look at the personal stuff you need from head to toe...


-Helmet (if you don't already have one)
-Wall Gloves
http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/gloves.htm
-Chest Harness (Yates makes the best one)
http://www.yatesgear.com/climbing/wall/index.htm#1
-Wall Harness ( I use Misty Mountain but Yates has a great one too)
http://www.yatesgear.com/climbing/big/index.htm#2
http://www.mistymountain.com/titan.htm
-ADJUSTABLE DAISY STRAP (Yates or fish, not Metolius) http://www.yatesgear.com/climbing/etriers/index.htm#5
http://www.fishproducts.com/catalog/productlinefs.html
-Aiders (Yates or fish ladders)
http://www.yatesgear.com/climbing/etriers/index.htm#5
http://www.fishproducts.com/catalog/productlinefs.html
-Ascenders ( the new BD ones are great but the Petzal are good too)
http://www.bdel.com/gear/nforce.php
http://en.petzl.com/petzl/SportProduits?Produit=123
-Good wall shoes (something you can free climb in but are really stiff)
http://www.sportiva.com/products/prod/359
-GriGri
http://en.petzl.com/petzl/SportProduits?Produit=203
-Knee Pads (soft ones are the best not the hard plastic)
http://www.sportchalet.com/product/index.jsp?productId=28778>>>>>



Here is a great place to get ALL of this stuff or you can search for the deals out there...
http://www.mgear.com


As far as your rack, don't buy pins and a hammer yet, hooks are good, but like John McNamee said pick a route and get that gear.

Here are some great Big Wall sites...

http://www.yatesgear.com/
http://www.fishproducts.com/
http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/info/yosemite/
http://www.mistymountain.com/
http://bigwalls.com/wallwiki/index.php?title=Main_Page
http://www.bigwall.com/
http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?forum=1>>>>>
http://www.supertopo.com/


I hope this helped...
Caz

By Mark Nelson
From Coniferous, CO
Dec 16, 2007
 In a zoo in California, a mother tiger gave birth to a rare set of triplet tiger cubs.    Unfortunately, due to complications in the pregnancy, the cubs were born prematurely and due to their tiny size, they died shortly after birth. <br /><br />The mother tiger after recovering from the delivery, suddenly started to decline in health, although physically she was fine. The veterinarians felt that the loss of her litter had caused the tigress to fall into a depression. The doctors decided that if the tigress could surrogate another mother's cubs, perhaps she would improve. <br /><br />After checking with many other zoos across the country, the depressing news was that there were no tiger cubs of the right age to introduce to the mourning  mother. The veterinarians decided to try something that had never been  tried in a zoo environment. Sometimes a mother of one species will take on the care of a different species. The only "orphans" that could be found quickly, were a litter of weaner pigs.  The zoo keepers and vets wrapped the piglets in tiger skin and placed the babies around the mother tiger.<br />

How bout tools of the trade that are used but not "climbing gear" per say?

What are some "other things" that help an aid line go?

Like duct tape - anyone use something like this as a must have for their endeavour & why?


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