By Mike-R
From springfield, Mo
Sep 2, 2012
| Hey Im coming from Missouri to Colorado soon and wondering does Colorado have any big wall climbing? I'm talking about big wall as in portaledge and sleeping on the rock?
Thanks | 
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By VARMENT
Sep 11, 2012
| Most folks around here go for a single push. |
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By Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Sep 13, 2012
| So that's the word on the snow in the park? I was hoping to get up into the park at least a few more times this season. Any south facing walls that dry out quickly? |
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By Marty Combs
From Boulder, CO
Sep 13, 2012
| Andy Hansen wrote: So that's the word on the snow in the park? I was hoping to get up into the park at least a few more times this season. Any south facing walls that dry out quickly?
The Petite is south facing and dries quickly, It also doesn't look like the park got as much snow as was forecasted. |
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By Rob Kepley
From Westminster,CO
Sep 13, 2012
| Arrowhead gets lots of sun and has some great routes up there. |
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By EDJ
Sep 13, 2012
| The black canyon has a number of worthy grade six test pieces! I recommend Paint it Black VI 5.10 A4, South Chasm view wall |
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By Scott Krankkala
Sep 14, 2012
| At a slightly easier grade than Pain it Black there is always the Hallucinogen Wall.
https://vimeo.com/49214523 |
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By YDPL8S
From Santa Monica, Ca.
Sep 14, 2012
| Not trying to be a jerk, really, but all of the climbs you have listed on your account(3) are 55 ft sport routes. I'd spend some time doing multipitch trad, say in Lumpy or Eldo before I went for a wall. There are plenty of routes in Lumpy that will give you an alpine feel and you might even do a few hanging belays before you put yourself in a high risk to fail situtation.
If I'm totally wrong about your skills, I apologize in advance. |
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By Dave Cummings
From Grand Junction, CO
Sep 14, 2012
| It is illegal to pitch a portaledge on the Diamond although there are several grade V's on it. Someone told me that if you climb Prevertical Sanctuary with the original start that climbs the lower east face and then the Diamond proper section that everyone climbs that it is a grade VI but I am not sure. The best place to do full on big wall climbing in CO is in the Black Canyon. Zion has a lot more classic big wall routes and a lot more moderate big wall climbing though. If you want to big wall I would head to Zion or Yosemite, they are as good as it gets for wall climbing anywhere. |
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By csproul
Sep 14, 2012
| Dave Cummings wrote: It is illegal to pitch a portaledge on the Diamond although there are several grade V's on it. Someone told me that if you climb Prevertical Sanctuary with the original start that climbs the lower east face and then the Diamond proper section that everyone climbs that it is a grade VI but I am not sure. The best place to do full on big wall climbing in CO is in the Black Canyon. Zion has a lot more classic big wall routes and a lot more moderate big wall climbing though. If you want to big wall I would head to Zion or Yosemite, they are as good as it gets for wall climbing anywhere.
Is this really true? I've seen several people do it. Do not any of the bivy permits apply to climbing on the Diamond?
here are the official rules for climbing bivies in RMNP; seems like number one would allow a portaledge bivy to me or does that count as "erected type shelters, tents or supported tarps" ?:
A bivouac is defined as a temporary, open-air encampment.
Permits are issued only to technical climbers.
The climb must be 4 or more technical pitches and 3½ or more miles from the trailhead.
Party size is limited to 4 people and all members must be climbing.
A bivouac must be established.
1. within the designated bivy zone, or at the base or on the face of the climb.
2. at least 200' (70 adult steps) from water.
3. with camp set up at dusk and taken down before dawn.
4. without the use of erected type shelters, tents or supported tarps.
5. on rock or snow only, not on vegetation, and out of meadows.
Fires prohibited. Use portable stoves only.
Stock prohibited. |
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By Kevin Landolt
From Fort Collins, Wyoming
Sep 14, 2012
| Fucking D-Baggers from Missouri always talking like their shit don't stink. People like you have no business wearing shorts or setting up ledges. Why don't you just stick to KKK and BBQ... |
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By scott cooney
From La Casa Taco
Sep 15, 2012
| csproul wrote: 1. within the designated bivy zone, or at the base or on the face of the climb. .
rule 1 permits it but at this time of year I would not want to spend a night on the face. I was just on it sep 6th via a chasm view bivy and it was freakin cold. with as wet as the face is the cold ices up all the wet spots which then rain down ice canstantly, especailly durring the early morning sun. the more time you spend on the face the more you put yourself at risk right now. |
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