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Big Toe to Great Chimney
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Coup de Gras 
Double Jeopardy 
Grand Illusion 
Homo Erectus 
Icarus 
Impervious Horror 
Modern Life is Rubbish 
Mr. Lucky 
Psamead Ghostdance 
Stuck Knee 

Big Toe to Great Chimney 


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Administrators: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, Chris treggE, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Chris treggE on Nov 15, 2011

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  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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Cranking hard

Description 

Climbs in between Prospect Point Pinnacle and Great Chimney, along the upper wall.


Getting There 

Between Prospect Point Pinnacle and Great Chimney, just east of the West bluff Trail.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Big Toe to Great Chimney:
Stuck Knee   5.7     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Grand Illusion   5.9+     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Homo Erectus   5.10+ R     Trad, 90 feet   
Icarus   5.11d     TR   
Psamead Ghostdance   5.12b/c     Trad, TR   
Browse More Classics in Big Toe to Great Chimney

Featured Route For Big Toe to Great Chimney
The route Grand Illusion with the lower 5.10b variation start shown.  It climbs up a crack not quit visible in the shadows lower right and scums over and past a point via a 5.10b mantle type move.  The upper crack and steep crux of Grand Illusion can be seen upper left in the photo as well but somewhat ill defined in this photo due to the angle of the shot and small shadows.

Grand Illusion 5.9+  WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Big Toe to Great Chimney
In Swartling's guide the route is shown as starting of ledge DD at Prospect Point Rampart.This is true but a better and more fun option is to climb the route from the ground via the 5.10b variation start that is a goody in itself (although can be wet and gooey right at the base).The upper Grand Illusion part of the route proper is a gem too. Very nice crack up into a overhanging crack/groove. Well protected and classic stiff 5.9. The crux here is pulling through the overhanging crack via lock...[more]   Browse More Classics in WI