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 ADVANCED
Big Toe to Great Chimney

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Coup de Gras T,TR 
Double Jeopardy T,TR 
Grand Illusion T,TR 
Homo Erectus T 
Icarus TR 
Impervious Horror TR 
Modern Life is Rubbish T,TR 
Mr. Lucky TR 
Psamead Ghostdance T,TR 
Stuck Knee T,TR 

Big Toe to Great Chimney  


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Page Views: 6,318
Administrators: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris treggE on Nov 15, 2011
Forecast:
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Partly Cloudy
67° | 49°
Partly Cloudy
72° | 63°
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78° | 57°
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Clear
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Crux moves. Photo: Darin Limvere. Aug 25 '12.

Description 

Climbs in between Prospect Point Pinnacle and Great Chimney, along the upper wall.

Getting There 

Between Prospect Point Pinnacle and Great Chimney, just east of the West bluff Trail.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.7 miles from here

10 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',2],['5.11',2],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Big Toe to Great Chimney:
Stuck Knee   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Grand Illusion   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Classics in Big Toe to Great Chimney

Featured Route For Big Toe to Great Chimney
The route Grand Illusion with the lower 5.10b variation start shown.  It climbs up a crack not quit visible in the shadows lower right and scums over and past a point via a 5.10b mantle type move.  The upper crack and steep crux of Grand Illusion can be seen upper left in the photo as well but somewhat ill defined in this photo due to the angle of the shot and small shadows.

Grand Illusion 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Big Toe to Great Chimney
In Swartling's guide the route is shown as starting of ledge DD at Prospect Point Rampart.This is true but a better and more fun option is to climb the route from the ground via the 5.10b variation start that is a goody in itself (although can be wet and gooey right at the base).The upper Grand Illusion part of the route proper is a gem too. Very nice crack up into a overhanging crack/groove. Well protected and classic stiff 5.9. The crux here is pulling through the overhanging crack via lock...[more]   Browse More Classics in WI

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