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Castle Rock - South Face
Routes Sorted
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Big Time S 
Castle Keep S 
Corrin's Crack T 
Diamonds in the Rough T 
High Road T,S 
High Times S 
Little Time S 
Pollo Negro S 
Poster Chicken T 
Wedding Gift T 

Big Time 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Pogue
Page Views: 6,184
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jun 20, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (85)
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Dalon leading the final pitch 4 to the top@SEMICOL...

Description 

This route is located on the south slabs of the main formation. This would probably be a 3 star route, if it was not so overbolted. Most climbers will feel OK clipping every other bolt on the majority of this route.

There are 4 30M pitches to this route and is a good intro to the area. There are bolted anchors at each belay, so it makes for a quick outing to top of the formation. Rap the route with a single 60M rope.

A good way to climb this route is to combine the first and last 2 pitches together for 200ft pitches.

Protection 

Lots of draws...


Photos of Big Time Slideshow Add Photo
Steep!
Steep!
Juggy love on the 4th pitch of Big Time
BETA PHOTO: Juggy love on the 4th pitch of Big Time
Dalon leading pitch two of Big Time; great fun cruiser climb!
Dalon leading pitch two of Big Time; gre...
Brian leading the fun and easy pitch 3 of Big Time with the beautiful "Red Rib" wall to my left!
Brian leading the fun and easy pitch 3 of Big Time...
First pitch of Big Time
First pitch of Big Time
Bigger than it looks! You start to the right of the red rib and end up climbing almost next to it the last third. Atleast that's how we did it.
BETA PHOTO: Bigger than it looks! You start to the right of th...
Sunrise start
Sunrise start
Shows possible 70m rappel from top of Little Time to top of gully (by Red Rib-left side of photo).
BETA PHOTO: Shows possible 70m rappel from top of Little Time ...
Beginning start of Big Time and racing the light!
Beginning start of Big Time and racing the light!
Top of Big Time and time to rappel in the dark!!  Yippee
Top of Big Time and time to rappel in the dark!! ...
Matt climbing up pitch 3 in the dark.  Almo Days was going on at this time, so we got to climb and listen to a band in town covering Lynyrd Skynyrd all night. Awesome!
Matt climbing up pitch 3 in the dark. Almo Days w...
Sara Geyer crawling up the slabs on Big Time. Not a bad way to spend a honeymoon.
Sara Geyer crawling up the slabs on Big Time. Not ...
Start of Big Time
BETA PHOTO: Start of Big Time
Near the top.
Near the top.
First rappel coming off the top. On the way up We climbed up the small chimney on the left to mix things up and it was pretty fun.
First rappel coming off the top. On the way up We ...
top of P2 (our first) <br />Super fun, well featured slab.
top of P2 (our first)
Super fun, well featured sla...
last belay station before to top
last belay station before to top
Kelli climbing the last pitch to the summit! Matt on belay.
Kelli climbing the last pitch to the summit! Matt ...

Comments on Big Time Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 2, 2013
By kpinwalla2
May 27, 2006

The description for this route was obviously written by an elitist prick. For example: "This would probably be a 3 star route, if it was not so overbolted." "Overbolted" depends on who you are and most of the intermediate climbers who climb this route are perfectly happy with the number of bolts. "Most climbers will feel OK clipping every other bolt on the majority of this route." If this is true, how come no one ever does this? The authors of the descriptions should stick to describing the routes and not inserting their elitist opinions.
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
May 29, 2006

Guideline #1: don't be a jerk....
By Mike Ben
From: silverthorne/denver
May 30, 2006

I think I agree with the description. Way over bolted. I'm an average climber and not an elitist prick and I rarely complain about over bolting but this is over bolted. This would be a great route to get some kids or beginners on for their first lead though.Get 'em high off the ground too. If you clipped every bolt and linked the pitches you would have a ton of drag. Really shows the difference between old and new school routes.
By 46and2
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jul 17, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great beginner lead and I think the last pitch is simply a blast to climb; don't pass up!! P.S. It has a couple bolts...:)
By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Sep 18, 2006

We were caught by a hard rain on the second pitch so we didn't finish. The climbing was fun and a wonderfully safe lead for my less experienced partner. Thanks to the FAer!
By Wavey
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 19, 2007

Link up pitch first two pitches and last two pitches leaving short glory pitch to summit. Bring long runners and enjoy the rock!!! Great route. Clip all the bolts you want to or just free solo it!!
By Rockwood
From: West Jordan
Jul 16, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is pretty over bolted and I'm kind of a beginner. We even skipped a belay station once or twice. We took up two ropes so we could make it from the top in just two rappels. The last pitch at the top has some good spots to snag your rope when you pull it. We opted to climb up the chimney to the very top and it was fun to mix it up. We'd arrived here and were looking for a long multipitch easy route we could finish before the sunset and this was perfect! Great views, nice and high, and lots of fun.
By Arlo F Niederer
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 9, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is a really fun climb. It starts with a series of overlapping flakes, similar to the shingles on a roof. There are good finger edges on these but they often face the wrong way, so you have to trust your feet.

The number of bolts are irrelevant...the climbing is fun and continuous for the first 30 meters. I split the climb into a 30m first pitch, and a 50-55 m second pitch, going all the way to the rap anchors on little time. The climbing is still fun on this pitch, but not as continuous as the first pitch.

If you are a beginnning leader, you will appreciate the spacing of the bolts. I've seen several parties lead this but never saw anyone skip any bolts...
By Matt Brodhead
From: Logan, UT
Oct 18, 2010

My buddy and I climbed this in the dark with headlamps. The last pitch is pretty fun and finishes on big granite plates.
By Tyson Taylor
Jun 11, 2011

Very slabby, low angle, just a couple fun cruxy spots, great for someone learning to lead or for learning slab technique, but the real reasons for doing this route are to access "Diamond in the Rough'(Trad 000,3inch, doubles in .75"-2", and some nuts) and to do the last pitch, really fun, interestingly shaped rock at the top.
By Andrewprime1
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 15, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is a pretty great multipitch climb. I did it in two big pitches with a 70 meter rope and two raps down with two 70's tied together. I ran out the bolts, but for a beginner they are nice to have.
By Walt Barker
From: AZ
Aug 20, 2011

Really fun climb. Loved the begining of the 1st pitch.
By Jason Reed
From: Benson, Utah
Sep 11, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Wonderful route. A great variety of rock starting with the strange "shingles" on the first pitch and finishing with awesome cracked pocked granite on the last pitch. The last pitch was so fun we would have done it again if the light hadn't been failing.

Bring plenty of quick draws I would recommend placing some runners to keep rope drag down. We actually placed runners down nearly every other bolt that we clipped. We climbed on a 70m rope and lugged up a 60m to get down in 2 raps. Rap the route.

There is currently a $5.00 day use fee to get into Castle Rocks. The approach to this route was maybe 10 minutes (probably less) and there are signs pointing the way to the route.

As with most Kevin Pogue routes there is plenty of protection, so skip or clip, it's certainly nice to have the option.
By Matt Schroer
From: Logan, Utah
Sep 11, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

As always, Kevin's route lives up to great expectations - super fun on some really neat and varying rock. The last pitch is the crux with a really fun slightly overhanging move. Look for a hidden bolt behind a patina shingle right above this overhanging ledge (I missed it on lead and felt safe but some climbers might want the pro).

We used two ropes to rap and got down quickly in two. With a 70 m rope we easily linked the first two pitches.

Jason said it perfectly - skip or clip the bolts. As a lead climber most comfortable on moderate routes, I love Kevin's bolting mentality. He helps keep us newer climbers safe. And we did skip some bolts, but only because we wanted to link the first pitches. Otherwise I always clip the bolts - who wants to take a 20 foot slab fall that one time your foot slips? If skipping protection is your climbing MO, you can have it.
By wayniak
Sep 13, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Rappel possible from the Little Time anchors to top of gully on left side of route w/70m rope.
By DjHuber
Jan 8, 2012

Climbed in the sun on 1/2/12. Strung out the bolts and did 2 pitches with a 70m rope. Great climb for those wanting to begin leading.
By Ian Cavanaugh
Feb 9, 2012

climbed this route 2/6/12 with my buddy. simu-climbed whole route, used 10 draws. took longer to rappel than to climb! super fun
By Nielsonru
Aug 21, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Kevin's routes really take away the runout-stress, and makes for a fun experience. I had an 80 m on this one. I now know it is exactly 40m to rap from the top of this climb to Little Time anchors, then one more rap into the gully as mentioned before.

Also, it seems like on the 3rd pitch you would stay by the large crack where the holds are, yet the bolts are out on the face, making it a long reach to clip a draw. Maybe we are the only ones to do it that way.
By S.Lee
Sep 2, 2013

Fun easy route, as mentioned lots of bolts, if you don't like them don't clip them all. The last pitch was amazing!