Big Sky Mud Flaps 5.10d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | Kyle Copeland, Charlie Fowler, Marc Hirt |
| Submitted By: | Joel Hickok on Jul 13, 2002 |
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Description This is excellent desert face and friction, and is a fairly sustained route (and long for Potash). It weaves its way up to a bulge and then around it to the right. Continue slight left again and then upwards to an anchor some 100 feet up. The length of the climb itself might be more like 110 ft due to weaving.
The crux comes high on the climb; it is friction moves a few feet off the last drilled angle. Have fun, and BTW this route is evolving every year with each ascent.
Use a 70 m, or two ropes, to get down safely.
Protection A dozen quickdraws should cover it - I think.
| Comments on Big Sky Mud Flaps |
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By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 20, 2002
| This climb is slippery and frustrating. Smearing on sandstone is a new skill that apparently takes time to master. Even worse is to be here on a day when Jimmy Dunn is here doing many of these climbs one handed. |
By Wavey
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 16, 2007
| Great desert slab route. This ain't no granite friction. Crux is up high and leader must climb well above pro. One can always find booty high on this potash classic. Climb after rainstorm for increased difficulty. |
By Greg D
From: Here
Feb 20, 2008
| Climbing any sandstone immediately following a rain storm is not a good idea as the rock is very soft at this time and the route may be changed forever. |
By Michael Ybarra
From: on the road
Apr 30, 2008
| I was loving this route until I took a whipper trying to get to the last clip and broke an ankle. |
By Brian in SLC
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 1, 2008
| www.bigskymudflaps.com/
Used to see these guys at the Top Hat in Missoula...way back when.
Wonder if the route is named after the band, or, after the ubiquitous adornment for many a truck in Montana (which is where the band got their name)? |
By Jordan Winters
From: Vail
Jun 12, 2009
rating: 5.10d R
| I thought this was a great route until I reached the bolt just below the last piton...super heady climbing above and super run-out...about 20 feet to the piton on smears which could lead to a 40 footer if you go south...I climbed up and then down climbed this section about 4 times before bailing on a biner i left...call me a pussy but it wasn't worth breaking some bones and getting cheese grated for...the ground up bolting ethic is insane and i give lots of credit to these animals for getting it done |
By Jim Slabwalker
From: Moab, UT
Aug 3, 2009
| wow, what a route! definitely had to tap into the rock warrior for this one. don't these routes get a little harder the older they get? i feel like it's at least an 11... hey jordan, i think i have your 'biner. is it an omega oval? i'll gladly send it to you if you want it. lemme know! |
By Jonathan Lagoe
Nov 5, 2011
rating: 5.11
| Great route. Crux is committing and a bit runout but hang in there. |
By Matt Pesce
From: moab, ut.
Sep 29, 2012
rating: 5.11a PG13
| 70m. is needeed...maybe a small cam to get to the 1st bolt |
By Zack S.
From: Prescott, AZ
Nov 10, 2012
rating: 5.11-
| Personally tested two of the SMC spinners near the top, one of them a few times. Good to go! |
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