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 ADVANCED
The Cleo Amphitheater
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Barndoor T,TR 
Better When Dry T,TR 
Between the Queens TR 
Big Roof TR 
Colostomy T,TR 
Curved Wall T,TR 
Face right of Barndoor Project? TR 
Hang Dog T 
Jack of Spades T,TR 
King's Throne T,TR 
King's Valet, The T,TR 
Mickey Mouse T,TR 
Minnie Mouse T,TR 
Minnie Mum T,TR 
Missing Link T 
Pinko T,TR 
Plank, The TR 
Queen's Face T,TR 
Queen's Throne T,TR 
Queens Clam, The T 
Throne Room T,TR 
Tilted Tower T,TR 
Unnamed 5.3 T,TR 
Unnamed 5.3 Corner T,TR 

Big Roof 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  TR, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Alex A,
Page Views: 619
Submitted By: Alex A on Oct 21, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Nick on lead.

Description 

Climbs face and big roof left of corner roof, crank thru the middle of the roof crux

Location 

right of the Plank and left of Hang dog

Protection 

Tr


Photos of Big Roof Slideshow Add Photo
Vinny
Vinny
The start.
BETA PHOTO: The start.
Big Roof
Big Roof
Beta: there are three small pockets on bottom of the roof, left hand in the middle pocket, give a reach around corner to a nice hold. Just below that pocket get your foot on a small ledge. Now get that right hand onto the sharp big ledge, you'll see the chalk.
BETA PHOTO: Beta: there are three small pockets on bottom of t...

Comments on Big Roof Add Comment
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By Tradoholic
Aug 13, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

This is known as Hang On in Sven's guide but I think it starts a bit more left than the line in the pic.
By Tradoholic
Aug 15, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

This is a GREAT route! Climbs sporty with big holds and a big overhang including a nice throw to the jug.

I led it with a #1 ball-nut under the roof and a blindly placed white tri-cam (smallest) just over the roof. A green C3 might also have fit but it was harder to place blindly.