Big Rock Area 

Parking outside the gate avoids the fee and only adds 5-10 minutes to the approach with the benefit of being able to climb until dark as the rangers close the gate promptly at sunset. That said, be aware that cars have been vandalized while parked outside the gate.

Plan for a 20-25 minute walk from the gate. Cut the time to 5 minutes if you bring a bike or skateboard. The gate never seems to be unlocked during the weekdays, so I have concluded that it is only unlocked on the weekends. However, I usually don't climb there in the summer (because of the heat), so it may just be a seasonal thing and unlocked in the summer. The rangers will give you a ticket if you don't pay the parking fee of $8...

Great info guys, and right on the mark. I would just like to add, for anyone who has not been to Big Rock and may only be comfortable leading heavily bolted lines, that this is not a typical sport climbing wall. For anyone who didn't know, "sport climbing" generally refers to well-bolted half-pitch routes (i.e. they can be top-roped with a single rope). Although Big Rock has some sport routes (see Let it Bleed and Cheap Thrills) most are closer to traditional slab. As an example, Africa Flake, although adequately protected, takes the full 60m passing 6 bolts. A true sport climb generally has a bolt every 6 to 10 feet. Obviously there is some gray area here, but most of these lines on Big Rock are too sparsely bolted to qualify as sport. But not to worry, due to the low angle of the rock, most lead falls are really lead "slides."

Climbed here yesterday. Planned on a nice long day of cragging, but got told our car was broken into (we parked inside, have a state parks pass). They broke our passenger front window and boosted a 1st gen ipod (worth about $30 now), charger, Jami's beef jerky and a trash can. Dealing with some real pros here... at least they ignored the 2 $400 phones on the dash...

Fun area with great slab climbing. Just drive a crappy car in and hide your stiff in the boot.

I'd really like to be a smart ass, all things considered, but Allen, they lifted a "trash can" from your car? ? ?

A few days ago my brother and I were approaching Big Rock from the parking lot around 10:30 AM. It was our first time there, so naturally my eyes focused on the climbers perched atop the second pitches instead of the hot concrete we were walking on. I didn't notice the very large rattlesnake that was sunbathing in the middle of the path until my foot was about two and a half feet from his head. Thankfully, they have these great ways of warning us before it's too late. I nearly jumped in the lake when I saw/heard him, but we're both OK. Moral of the story--be aware of snakes! I also heard that one was hanging out under the picnic tables a couple weeks ago.

HAHA....I had the EXACT same experience there a few years back! Must be his M.O...

I have been climbing out here a few times over the last few weeks and it is great. I was just wondering about the quality of the bolts though. Most of them are rusted, spinning hangers, button heads, etc. I am no expert but to me some of the bolts out there looked kinda shady, especially given the longer distance between bolts. Any input would be greatly appreciated

-Nate

Nate - The majority of the old bolts at Big Rock were replaced with 3/8" bolts in the late 80's, with even more bolts replaced in the late 90's. There are however still some original 1/4" bolts out there as well as some high traffic bolts which might stand being upgraded to 1/2".

If there's any routes needing a look and/or upgrade post them here, thanks.

Why would the area be closed? Is it being shut down?

called the Ranger out at the park yesterday and she said that they haven't even started construction yet on the dam. Climbing area is still open!

Is big Rock Open still? also anyone been to the big rock sport boulder near big rock? any info on that? is it worth checking out?

Big Rock is still open. I had a great day of climbing there two weeks ago. Unfortunately, I parked outside the gate and had my car damaged and broken into despite the fact that I left the car unlocked in case anyone wanted to steal my valueless possessions. Police said it was the first time this year, but if you plan to come a few times it would be easier to buy a pass and park within the gates in order to save yourself a possible broken window.

Greetings. Does anyone know if the main wall gets any sun in the winter, and if so, what time of day? It's north-facing, so I wasn't sure. It's a bit cold out there in the shade when taking slower climbers.
thanks

Paul - The main slab of Big Rock faces mostly west and receives sun from late morning until late afternoon/early evening when the hillide in front of it blocks the sun.

Is the Helios Boulder the "sport boulder" ?

or if it isn't, why isn't it listed? Access issue??

and if it is, that might be a good AKA to add, plus the other routes.

The Helios Boulder is not the Sport Boulder.