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Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Agent Orange 
Agronaut, The 
Banana Head 
Bete Noir 
Big Papa 
Big Rip, The 
Confederacy of Dunces 
Dance Connection 
End of the Tether 
Eyeless in Gaza 
Frigid Relations 
Promised Land, The 
Razor Crack 
Romper Room 
Rough Boys 
Sewer Rat  
She's Crafty 
Sundog Delight  
Tar and Feather 
Tits Out for the Lads 
Vanishing Point 
Yellow Matter Custard 

Big Papa 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Equipped by Brady Libby, FA by Tim Deroehn, Sept 2009
Page Views: 1,078
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Sep 20, 2009
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The crux of Big Papa.


Big Papa is a route that was hiding in plain sight until its first ascent this fall. It climbs the striking, overhanging crack just to the left of Banana Head in the middle of Sundown's Main Cliff.

Start by climbing up blocky rock, clip a bolt, and do a few face moves to gain the crack. The crack is very steep, angling, and offset. These three characteristics conspire to create a physical and gymnastic crack climb.

To finish, top out on a sloping ledge and clip a two bolt anchor.


One bolt, #3 Camalot, and smaller cams.

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By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 20, 2009

That looks and sounds so cool... nice work seeing it and on opening it up Tim... Nice work on the SA Jay, Thanks for posting it...

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Sep 21, 2009

was this the route that brady outfitted?

By Jay Knower
From: Plymouth, NH
Sep 21, 2009

Yes, Brady cleaned the crack, placed the anchors, and placed the bolt at the start.

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Sep 21, 2009

He and another friend of mine were telling me about it, sounds cool. Awesome job getting the second ascent. It sounded really techy and powerful.

By Jay Knower
From: Plymouth, NH
Sep 21, 2009

Thanks guys. It's a great route. Steep, well-protected cracks like this seem to be kind of rare in New Hampshire.

By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Sep 3, 2012

So good. Powerful, steep, awkward feet.

By Chad Laflamme
From: Plymouth, NH
Oct 14, 2012

I agree with David. Fantasticly gymnastic crack climb (at least with my beta). Took a session to figure out moves, and another to figure out gear (BTW I also use a #4 cam). Now I just have to get a chance to get back out there and try hard. Really really hard.

By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Dec 31, 2012