This route is the first bolt line to the right of Baby Jr. Gets Spanked (BJGS follows the brown stain up the face). Big Nosed Kate follows bolts up straightforward climbing to a ledge, then ascends tough face for a couple of moves (crux) to easier climbing above. Staying directly under the bolts may push the rating into 5.9 range. Also, beware of hitting the ledge with a fall from the crux; possibly consider tying in your belayer if they weigh considerably less than you do.
A direct start from the trees protected by a single bolt is hard climbing. To avoid this, simply traverse in from the left.
6-8 bolts, chain anchors on top.
|By Vincent Greene|
Jul 5, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The direct start from the trees is around a 5.10a move straight up the groove. You might want to consider skipping the first bolt - by the time you clip it, you have already made the hard move.
|By Brian Boyd|
Feb 16, 2009
The direct start is fun. Definite ledge-smacking potential if you blow the upper crux section.