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Echo Cove - South Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Moe 
Bigger Moe 
Boulder Dash 
Bucket Brigade 
Curly  
Death On The Nile 
Deceptive Corner 
Ground Up or Shut Up (aka Poppycock) 
Larry (aka Out To Lunch) 
Little Moe 
Moetown 
Ocean of Night (aka Out to Grunge) 
Undercover 

Big Moe 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: (TR) John Bachar, Mike Lechlinski, Mari Gingery, 1980.
Page Views: 5,639
Submitted By: Randy on Jan 1, 2003
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Soloing Big Moe

Description 

This excellent route is located on your right (south) as you walk into the Cove from the parking area. It takes a fairly direct line about 25 feet right of the large right-facing dihedral on the upper portion of the wall (Boulder Dash, 5.9*).

The climb name is "short" for big dynamo or "mo", the technique used by the first ascent party to solve the crux move down low. Though this move is now commonly done statically, shorter people often "pop" for the huge hand hold.

Great climbing from bottom to top on excellent rock.


Protection 

If you chose to lead this route (you have to do the crux without pro); bring cams 1 to 2 inches for the two horizontals. Though given an "R" rating, it probably is best given an R/X rating as any fall at the crux would be very bad and if you landed wrong....

Most people top-rope this climb (2 bolt anchor on top). The route is rarely lead, but often free soloed.



Photos of Big Moe Slideshow Add Photo
Soloing Big Moe
Soloing Big Moe
Big Moe. Darin about to finally get some gear in. Photo: Dan the Mormon.
Big Moe. Darin about to finally get some gear in. ...
Big Moe. Just after the crux. Climber: Darin Limvere. Photo: Dan the Mormon
Big Moe. Just after the crux. Climber: Darin Limve...
Setting up for the crux. Darin Limvere, Photo: Dan the Mormon
Setting up for the crux. Darin Limvere, Photo: Dan...
"Big Moe". <br />Photo by Blitzo. <br />
BETA PHOTO: "Big Moe".
Photo by Blitzo.
Got it! Threw the Big Mo and made it!
Got it! Threw the Big Mo and made it!
Erik Gearhart solo'ing Big Moe in the 90s.
Erik Gearhart solo'ing Big Moe in the 90s.
Gary, almost up.
Gary, almost up.
Feet off the rock Dynamo.
Feet off the rock Dynamo.
Setting up for the crux move
Setting up for the crux move
Gary finishing the climb.
Gary finishing the climb.
Gary, after the "Big Moe."
Gary, after the "Big Moe."
sending big moe
sending big moe
Big Moe
Big Moe
Solo'ing Big Moe in the '90s.  Psyching up for the endurance crux above.
BETA PHOTO: Solo'ing Big Moe in the '90s. Psyching up for the...
Comments on Big Moe Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 6, 2014
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 22, 2003

"...shorter people often "pop" for the huge hand hold" - that is absolutely right (I'm 5'6"). However, the fun doesn't stop there. The climbing eases up for a bit, but there are still a few powerful moves just below the top - pace yourself!

By C Miller
Administrator
Nov 30, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c R

A long-established Josh classic with a distinct crux down low and steep, continuous moves at the top. Climbers with little endurance may find the moves at the top to be another crux if pumped. This route is conducive to doing laps and could be considered the roped equivalent of Gunsmoke.

By Crack Addict
From: San Diego, CA
Jan 15, 2005

I climbed Big Moe today and a guy told me about a "proud line" that went straight up from the horizontal crack rather than traversing to the left. Any info? It felt like an 11d or 12a move and definately reach dependant.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jan 28, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

The direct line from the horizontal goes, just as mentioned at about 12a. It involved camming one's foot into said horizontal which could cause ankle damage if one fell at the wrong moment. I witnessed Mike Verdugo walk this line 10 or 12 years ago. We called it "Bigger Moe."

By Pat W
Oct 5, 2007

Fun, reachy or dynamic crux and creepy pump up high. If it's the roped equivalent to gunsmoke, maybe I just don't have it wired yet. Seemed a bit harder than V2. Good stuff, 3 of 5 stars for a toprope. Would be a quite proud lead.

By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Sep 10, 2008
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c R

This really should only get a R rating for the lead not an X. Sure the crux comes before the first gear, but its not like it is so high that you are going to die if you pitch, get hurt sure, or with the way things have been being done lately, just bring pads for the start. A fall from the top would be BIG for the wall that you are on, but again you are not likely to do any real damage.

By Gregg Olson
From: ca
Oct 4, 2008
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c X

This is in my top ten list. Bolts on top for T.R. Its a great training route with super fun moves. I used to go straight over the upper bulge avoiding the flakes to the left with a foot lock under the bulge and a reach to a small edge ( 12 ish ). As far as leading this thing goes... I used to have this climb completely wired and had a bit of a love affair with r rated routes and I think I would rather solo it then lead it !! In Reference to someones comment above... "just bring crash pads ", " you are not likely to do any real damage", " an R rating" ??? Are you kidding me ??? I could not even imagine dragging a rope and a few cams with me up to the bulge unprotected !! A fall from the low crux might not kill you, but would bounce you off the uneven ledge and into the ground from bone breaking height, a fall from the moves above the crux ( there's still some moves here, and remember your not on a top rope ) certainly would. Jerry Moffett's first lead, and any lead ever of this climb, was and is done in classic bold English gritstone style and is a life threatening undertaking.

By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Oct 5, 2008
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c R

First off, I did lead this route, I tried it in 1993 on TR and could not do it at all. In 2000 I rapped the line to see what gear I needed, pulled the rope and lead it and yes I think it is a great route.
Second as far as the R versus X rating is concerned, lets remember that X means that a route is life threatning in the event of a fall, broken bones does not cut it.

By Hans Florine
Jan 29, 2010

Great for parents! The kids have plenty of flat space to play at the base, there is 5.5s to 5.9s 100 ft away, AND BEST OF ALL the kids can rope swing on Big Moe's TR ropes in between your laps! enjoy!

kid swing!
kid swing!

By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Jul 8, 2011

Bolts are back......

By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Jan 7, 2013

Burly sustained great movement. I wouldn't dare to lead this... Not a fan of doing dynos on lead with no gear!

By Justin Sarvela
From: Duluth, Minnesota
Jan 20, 2013

Terrible climb when it's cold out, I'd imagine in the summer it's utterly amazing (being in the shade and all). Got just past the crux before my hands froze up.

By Brian Chastain
Mar 7, 2013

Hey Nelson, what's up buddy. I did this after leading Ground Up or Shut Up with basically no break. I was pretty pumped from that and I didn't have to do any dynos. I am pretty short, 5'7".

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jan 6, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

I was kicking the sand under this route last week and found a penny dated 1936. Could barely read the date. Wonder how long that was under the dirt? Lucky day. Cool route.