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Piz Ciavazes
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"Bergfuehrerweg"/ Route of the Guides. T 
Abram Arete T 
Big Micheluzzi T 
Buhl Direct T 
Kleine Micheluzzi/"Little Micheluzzi." T 
Papa Giovanni Paolo II S 
Rampenfuehre / "Ramp" Route T 
Roberta83 S 
Schubert (Friendhip Route) T 
Via Irma T 
Via Rossi - Tomasi T 
Zeni Corner T 

Big Micheluzzi 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 12 pitches, 820'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Luigi Micheluzzi, Ettore Castiglioni. 1935
Season: Summer
Page Views: 1,430
Submitted By: eDixon on May 30, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Carefull not to pull that fixed pin out - you migh...


Pitch 1 - Face climb up to a decent ledge below some slabs.

Pitch 2 - Climb the slabs up and then through a short corner. Next move right under an overhang to a ledge.

Pitch 3 - Follow the ramp up and right, then traverse left on the ledge. Continue up a short corner to a small stance.

Pitch 4 - Face climb up and right, then through short sections of chimney and crack to a ledge.

Pitch 5 - Move up and right on easy face and ledges towards a small horn.

Pitch 6 - Traverse right on face, around the corner.

Pitch 7 - Another traverse pitch to the right. This leads to the base of a corner.

Pitch 8 - Climb the corner and then up the black water-streaked face.

Pitch 9 - Continue up the black face, and then a crack.

Pitch 10 - Climb up and left away from the black streaks, through some slabs, and towards a stance on a small ledge.

Pitch 11 - Up and right on a ramp and face, back towards the black water streaks.

Pitch 12 - Face climb up and right to the large terrace.

Descent - Traverse left to between the Piz Ciavazes and Second Sella Tower. Scramble down to the road.


The route ascends the south face of the Piz Ciavazes. The name of the route is written on the rock at the base.


There are sufficient pins on the route. Maybe brings some nuts and/or small cams.

Photos of Big Micheluzzi Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the wall from near the top. You can s...
Looking down the wall from near the top. You can s...
Rock Climbing Photo: Close up of Big Micheluzzi and Schubert routes
BETA PHOTO: Close up of Big Micheluzzi and Schubert routes
Rock Climbing Photo: This is a scenic photo of the entire Piz Ciavazes ...
This is a scenic photo of the entire Piz Ciavazes ...
Rock Climbing Photo: In the middle of the big traverse
In the middle of the big traverse
Rock Climbing Photo: Walk along this ledge across the entire face of th...
BETA PHOTO: Walk along this ledge across the entire face of th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Traverse pitch number 3
Traverse pitch number 3
Rock Climbing Photo: The 'trail' down from the Big Micheluzzi.
The 'trail' down from the Big Micheluzzi.

Comments on Big Micheluzzi Add Comment
Show which comments
By BenL
Mar 21, 2008
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

excellent classic until you come to the big ledge, go down here (easy, head left) unless you like steep choss. Historical traverse in the middle, stay low enough...
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 13, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is an absolutely wonderful route – not too hard, very good rock for the Dolomites, spectacular traverse in an unbelievably beautiful setting, extremely easy approach and descent. Of course these features make it quite popular as well so get an early start and be patient with others (welcome to European climbing). I think it is the best moderate route on the wall – a good introduction to climbing in the area. Almost everyone only does the first half of the route to the main ledge and walks off to the left.
Approach - Park in the dirt lot across the road from the wall and hike to the base - 10 minutes. Descent - at the half way point in the wall walk left across the entire mountain to the col between the Sella towers and Piz Ciavazes - descend into the grass then work your way back through the forest and down to your car.
Gear - 4-5 cams, 6-10 wires, threads, long slings.
By scoTt Millbern
From: Langenfeld, Germany
Feb 1, 2011

I would add to the gear list a bunch (6-8) of slings from 7mm cord. We used these for threadthroughs and to girth hitch a few pins that would not take a biner.

Steller route!

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